Returning to Edinburgh felt less like a holiday and more like a homecoming. With the city centre now familiar ground, we allowed ourselves the luxury of a slower pace. We also returned to the magnificent Town Chambers and the beautiful Town House we stayed in last year.The cobblestone wynds of the Old Town remain as enchanting as ever, particularly when tracing the origins of literary legends - in this instance, Ms Rowling and her creation Harry Potter. We're familiar with coming across her references and inspirations in our part of the world (Dursley being the most noticable one) but it was interesting to see Edinburgh's Victoria Street in the Old Town through the lens of the belief it's the real-life inspiration for Diagon Alley.
Our time in the capital was enriched by personal connections and local expertise. A long lunch with Tracey provided a much needed catch up before we re-joined Andrew for a history tour of the town centre explaining all about the history that binds this incredible city together. His passion for his subject really brings the characters to life as they battled for dominance and control through the centuries. His depth of knowledge regarding the Scottish Enlightenment and the city’s architectural evolution added layers of meaning to the familiar skyline.
Although our lodgings were opposite the splendid St Giles' Cathedral, a grand, Gothic medieval building where John Knox used to preach, we never popped inside last time. So we remedied that on this trip and weren't disappointed. It's splendor and imposing grandeur was impressive to say the least. It was also the resting place of the late Queen Elizabeth II before her final journey south to London.
To finish our stay, we trekked up Arthur's Seat as the sun began its descent. Reaching the summit of this ancient volcano is always a physical challenge, but the reward of a sunset stretching across the Firth of Forth and the city spires is unmatched.
The Highland Shift: From Slopes to Shorelines
On departing Edinburgh we headed towards Arbroath to have lunch with a dear friend of James'. We stopped off here last year and enjoyed the impressive Arbroath Abbey with its ruined walls steeped in history and dreams of independence. This time, we met at a lovely restaurant beside the cute harbour. It was good to catch up albeit briefly before moving on.
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| If we're not allowed to feed them in this area, please direct me to the correct seagull feeding area! |
As we moved north towards the Cairngorms, we were prepared for the thrill of the slopes. However, the Scottish weather is famously temperamental. High winds and a thin dusting of snow meant our skiing plans were shelved, yet the change of pace was far from disappointing. Instead of the adrenaline of the piste, we found a deep, restorative stillness.
We spent a full day wandering around Loch Morlich and Loch An Eilein. Loch An Eilein is home to a 13th century island castle ruin that sits silently in the water, a remnant of the Wolf of Badenoch's reign. The air in the Highlands is remarkably crisp, and the reflection of the ancient Caledonian pines in the still water offered a perfect moment for reflection.
Our exploration of the Highlands continued at the Balmoral Estate. It is a rare privilege to wander through the grounds of the Royal Family’s Scottish residence free of charge during the off season. Walking through the secluded valley, one can easily discern why Queen Victoria described this place as her "dear paradise" in the Highlands. The estate has been the private home of the British Royal Family since 1852 and the architecture of the castle against the rugged backdrop of the hills is breathtaking. We spent the afternoon imagining a life in such a tranquil setting, appreciating the isolation and the natural beauty that protects it.
Southbound Through History and Engineering
While Aviemore was a dream that we will certainly revisit for the snow, our journey southwards was equally captivating. We paused at Stirling Castle, one of the most historically significant sites in the country. Perched atop Castle Hill, it was the childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots and served as a vital strategic fortress during the Wars of Scottish Independence. Standing on the battlements, looking out towards the Wallace Monument, the weight of Scotland’s past feels tangible.
Before completing our journey, we visited Falkirk to witness the intersection of art and modern engineering. The Kelpies are truly colossal, standing at 30 metres tall as a tribute to the heavy horses that once powered Scotland’s industries. Nearby, the Falkirk Wheel represents a feat of Victorian spirit in a modern age. It is the world’s only rotating boat lift, connecting the Forth and Clyde Canal with the Union Canal. Watching the massive structures rotate with such precision was a mesmerising end to a trip that balanced the ancient traditions of the Highlands with the creative energy of the Lowlands.
En route home, we spent a night in Glasgow since neither of us had really been to the city before. We arrived late afternoon and had all good intentions of exploring the city, but our hotel was so fabulous and the spa so welcoming, that we just enjoyed the facilities and had a wonderful evening meal.
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