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Alpine Adventures

For our latest adventure, we devised a grand itinerary by linking two separate alpine excursions. With a trip to Verbier already secured for...
For our latest adventure, we devised a grand itinerary by linking two separate alpine excursions. With a trip to Verbier already secured for late January and a New Year’s celebration recently added to the calendar, the logic was clear: why not bridge the gap with an expansive driving tour? Well, you know how we roll by now!
An early Boxing Day start - down to Folkstone and into France!
The journey began by bisecting the 16-hour trek to the Swiss Alps into two manageable legs. Our first stop was Troyes (pronounced ‘Twah’), a city that was—at the time of booking—a complete enigma to us. Having paid little attention to the specifics of our accommodation, the arrival felt akin to unwrapping a Christmas present. We had no expectations and were subsequently enthralled as the city’s medieval charm and the hotel's unexpected luxury revealed themselves layer by layer. 

Day 1 - A Medieval Yuletide in Troyes: Stained Glass and Subterranean Spas

The transition from the familiar streets of Bristol to the historic heart of the Champagne region was remarkably seamless, yet upon arrival in Troyes, it felt as though we had stepped through a portal into a different century. Though we arrived with few expectations, we were immediately captivated by the city’s profound medieval character. Troyes is famously shaped like a champagne cork - the Bouchon de Champagne - and its narrow, winding alleys offer a masterclass in preserved history.
As evening fell, the town was transformed into a winter sanctuary. Festive lights draped across the timber-framed buildings, casting a golden glow over the cobblestones, while the melodic crooning of Michael Bublé echoed through the streets. The local Christmas market was in full swing, anchored by a magnificent carousel that spun with nostalgic elegance. Amongst the charming wooden stalls offering traditional French crafts, the scent of festive fayre was irresistible. We found ourselves drawn to a stall selling decadently decorated doughnuts; they proved to be the softest and creamiest we have ever tasted, a perfect indulgence against the crisp December air.

A Sanctuary of Modern Luxury
Our accommodation for the night was a luxury spa hotel that served as a warm, sophisticated embrace after our explorations in the frost. The room itself was a triumph of design, featuring a bathroom with a corner shower of such generous proportions it rivalled the size of an entire standard guest bathroom.
Our luxury overnight stay - La Licorne Hotel
However, the true pièce de résistance was the subterranean spa. Nestled beneath the historic foundations, the facility felt intimate and exclusive. We spent the evening alternating between the sauna, the steam room, and a remarkably tranquil pool. The highlight was a thematic sensory shower, which utilised choreographed lighting and sound effects to simulate environments ranging from the thundering power of Niagara Falls to the gentle, humid rhythm of a tropical rainstorm. It was a masterfully curated experience that allowed the stresses of travel to simply melt away.
Dining Amidst Living History
For dinner, we sought out Grill Saint Jean, a restaurant situated within a striking 16th-century timber-framed building. The interior was a fascinating tapestry of the past; one could see where joists had been repurposed and marks left by craftsmen centuries ago. Sitting within those walls, one reflects on the generations of people who have lived and worked under those same beams. It is a humbling thought to consider how the original inhabitants might view the building today, now a bustling centre of modern culinary hospitality.

Day 2 - Cathedral Magnificence and Windows of Wonder

After a restful night’s sleep—facilitated by a bed of exceptional comfort—we enjoyed a breakfast that was a testament to the French dedication to quality. Though modest in scale, every component of the buffet was curated with care, offering flavours that were both fresh and vibrant.

The City of Stained Glass
Before our departure, we took the opportunity to explore the cathedral district in the soft morning light. The preservation of the medieval architecture in Troyes is truly world-class, particularly the iconic pans de bois (timber-framing) that lines the streets leading toward the river.
The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul is nothing short of magnificent. It is often noted that the Aube region is home to a staggering 40% of the world’s heritage stained glass, and the cathedral holds the lion's share of this artistic treasure. Every window serves as a vibrant tapestry of colour and narrative, rendered in thousands of meticulously shaped glass pieces. These installations were originally designed to impress and inspire a medieval audience, and several centuries later, that power remains undiminished. The vastness of the nave and the intricate stonework created an atmosphere of profound stillness.
As we returned to the hotel car park, the modern world greeted us once more. Our car stood amongst a collection of high-performance vehicles—sleek Porsches, several Range Rovers, and a fleet of Mercedes—whose exclusivity signalled the prestigious reputation of our temporary home. We left Troyes feeling deeply enriched by its ability to balance such ancient majesty with contemporary refinement. 

Ski Week 1 - A Frozen Lake, High Art & New Year’s Celebrations

For the first week of our residency in Verbier, we were delighted to be joined by a wonderful cohort of James's family and friends to ring in 2026. The group included his father and brother with their partners, along with Daniel, a model visiting from Romania, and Karl, a long-time friend. The week was defined not by a frantic itinerary but by a relaxed pace, offering us a rare and cherished opportunity to catch up.
Interestingly, we did not actually venture onto the ski slopes this week. Instead, we opted to explore the region’s other winter offerings, starting with a visit to the breathtaking Champex-Lac. This area is appropriately nicknamed 'Switzerland’s little Canada' due to its vast forests, expansive lake and traditional wooden chalets that dot the landscape. Situated in the shadow of the Le Catogne mountain, the village has nurtured a tradition of warm hospitality for over a century, originally attracting early 20th-century tourists seeking an escape into nature.
It was a genuine surprise to see the lake completely frozen over, a stark and beautiful contrast to our last visit during the height of summer. The scene was picturesque, filled with people playing ice hockey, skating and walking their dogs across the thick ice. There is something profoundly peaceful about walking on a surface that was a shimmering blue pool only months prior.
On another day, we decided to seek out the highest point in the Verbier resort—the summit of Mont Fort, sitting at a staggering 3,330 metres above sea level. Reaching this altitude is an experience in itself, requiring a series of cable cars including the famed 'Jumbo' lift. This impressive feat of engineering is capable of transporting up to 150 people at a time and moves over 1,000 passengers every hour at a speed of 10 metres per second.
Upon reaching the summit, the thinness of the air was immediately noticeable as we tackled the final stone staircase to the viewing deck. However, the physical exertion is instantly rewarded. From the platform, you are treated to a spectacular panoramic view of the Alpine giants, including the Matterhorn, Mont-Blanc and the Dent d’Hérens. For those looking to dine at altitude, it is also home to the highest-altitude fondue in Europe, a bucket-list experience for any cheese lover.
On our descent, we took a cultural detour to hike along Verbier’s Sculpture Park. Located at an altitude of 2,300 metres between La Chaux and Ruinettes, this open-air museum features works created by international artists. These creatives are invited to Verbier every year for a research-led residency focused on environmentalism, resulting in thought-provoking installations that contrast starkly with the white snow.
Of course, the undeniable highlight of this first week was the traditional gathering in the town's central square, Place Centrale, at midnight on New Year's Eve to welcome 2026. It is an incredibly popular week to visit the resort, with over 40,000 visitors descending on the town to enjoy the festivities. A few thousand of those assemble in the square as the night progresses. While we waited for the clock to strike midnight, we watched with amusement as optimistic and enthusiastic revellers attempted to climb the lamp posts, usually sans clothing—a local tradition that is as baffling as it is entertaining.
When the clock finally chimed twelve, the atmosphere was electric. Not only were champagne corks flying through the cold night air but fireworks erupted above us, illuminating the valley. It was quite a spectacle and a truly memorable way to begin our Swiss residency.

Ski Week 2 - Four Valleys, Three Skiers, Too Much Food!

For our second week we were joined by James' cousin Chloe. We traveled to Geneve to pick her up from the train station after we dropped the previous party off at the airport. Although Spencer has been to Geneva airport many times, he hadn't actually visited the city. So this was a perfect opportunity to do so. 
Initially the spectacular Jet d'Eau de Genève that is the postcard landmark of the city, wasn't operating much to his disappointment.
However, it seems James was able to work his magic and by the time we were able to get closer to it, it was spraying 500 litres of water at 200mph 140 meters into the air. 
Back in Verbier, we had a wonderfully relaxed week skiing four times during the week, including one rather cold day (-18°C!) when we opted to do the Four Valleys - a 40km exhilarating return trek across the interconnected region. 

Alpine Road Trip

So after two weeks based in Verbier, we're off on our road trip around the Alpine region. In hindsight, tackling mountainous roads in the middle of winter might not be the best of ideas we've ever had, but, nevertheless armed with snow tyres and the Swiss and Austrian highway team's snow clearing efficiency in full swing, we set off - after first digging out the car from the chalet!

Montreux

A Stormy farewell
Our journey began with a brief interlude in Montreux, a familiar favourite on the Swiss Riviera, where we dropped Chloe off at the train station. We managed to steal a moment for a coffee and a stroll along the promenade of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman). The scene was a dramatic contrast to our previous summer visits; instead of calm waters, the lake churned with waves crashing against the rocks like the open ocean. Yet, even in this blustery weather, the city’s elegance remained undeniable.

Bern

A Winter Visit to the Medieval Streets
After bidding farewell to Chloe, we drove an hour to Bern. The wintry weather persisted but added an atmospheric charm to our walk through the Old City. We strolled down the Kramgasse, or 'Grocers Alley', grateful for the shelter provided by the city's famous limestone arcades known as Lauben. It was fascinating to walk the same covered paths that Albert Einstein once tread during his time living on this historic street.The thoroughfare is dotted with ornate Renaissance fountains that add colour to the stone surroundings, leading up to the Zytglogge. This landmark clock tower has watched over the city since the 13th century and remains a captivating sight. We concluded our whistlestop tour at the Bern Minster where the terrace offered panoramic views over the Aare River loop, providing a serene moment of reflection before we moved on.

We settled in for the night at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in Eastern Switzerland, a mere stone's throw from the Liechtenstein border. The site is steeped in hydro-thermal history, with waters discovered in 1242 and the Tamina Thermal Bath established in 1872 - Europe's first indoor thermal pool. Our stay was sumptuous, from the spectacular room to the spa featuring an atmospheric replica of the Tamina Gorge. We even embraced the local custom of the textile-free sauna before concluding our evening with an exquisite dinner where the Michelin-starred quality was undeniable.

Liechtenstein

A Royal Detour to Tiny Liechtenstein
After another trip to the spa and a workout, it was time to jump in the car and hop across the Rhine to reach Liechtenstein, the sixth-smallest country in the world. We couldn't resist the chance to tick another country off our list, so we spent the afternoon exploring the capital, Vaduz.
View from the hotel car park on departure. 
On arrival, we sought out the tourist information centre and were most enthusiastically educated about Lichtenstein, its history and culture, by 
It is a surreal experience to walk through an entire capital city in under an hour, yet Vaduz punches well above its weight. We strolled along the 'Städtle', the pedestrianised heart of the city, which feels like an open-air gallery thanks to the modern sculptures—including works by Botero—that line the path.
While the modern Kunstmuseum (a striking black cube of a building) caught our eye, the true icon of the city loomed high above us. Vaduz Castle, the 12th-century residence of the Princely Family, sits perched on a rocky hillside overlooking the town. Although the castle isn't open to the public (the Prince still lives there!), seeing it guard the valley below adds a distinct fairytale atmosphere to this quiet, wealthy enclave.

Salzburg

An Alpine Drive and a Castle on the Hill
The four-hour journey from Vaduz to Salzburg was an odyssey through a stark winter landscape, made manageable by Austria’s impressive engineering. We were sheltered from the worst of the elements by a series of seemingly endless tunnels, likely including the Arlberg Road Tunnel which cuts through the mountains for nearly 14 kilometres.
Arrival in Salzburg brought a brief comedy of errors. Google Maps initially guided us up a winding, narrow road toward a castle perched atop a rocky outcrop—the historic Mönchsberg. Faced with a dauntingly narrow bridge, we second-guessed the technology and retreated to the river level, only to be met by a rising bollard blocking our path. A sheepish call to the hotel confirmed that our first instinct was correct; the narrow bridge was indeed the gateway to Hotel Schloss Mönchstein.
Any frustration from the drive evaporated the moment we arrived. We were ushered out of the biting cold and straight into the bar, where a glass of welcome champagne awaited us. The hotel itself is a masterclass in history, dating back to 1350, and blends that heritage with modern comfort seamlessly. After a delicious dinner, we retired to an upgraded corner room that left us cooing with delight. With panoramic views stretching across the River Salzach and the snow-dusted domes of the city, it was the perfect end to a long day on the road.

Salzburg Day 2
The Hills are Alive!
After a hearty breakfast and a session in the gym, there was only one logical agenda for us in Salzburg. As two self-respecting gay travellers, we simply had to pay tribute to the 1965 classic, The Sound of Music. It is, after all, a cultural rite of passage to trace the footsteps of the seven Von Trapp children and their favourite nun.
We headed into the city centre, ready to belt out a few scales. It is worth noting that while Hollywood magic meant many iconic interiors were filmed on soundstages in London, Salzburg provided the stunning real-world canvas for the exterior shots. We explored the famous sites where Julie Andrews once skipped, soaking in the baroque architecture that framed the film. It is amusing to think that while the movie is a global phenomenon, it remains relatively unknown to many Austrians living right here in the city! Key locations were the Cathedral, Mirabell Gardens and the Museum der Moderne.
  • [Col]
    • Film Stills
    • Our Visit
  • [Col]
    • Top Left: Do-Re-Mi as they come down from the hill.
      Bottom Left: Do-Re-Mi around the fountain
      Top Right: I Have Confidence as Maria enters the square
      Middle Right: Do-Re-Mi montage
      Bottom Right: Climax of Do-Re-Mi - The Steps
    • Top Left: The path today is by the Modern Museum and just behind our hotel.
      Bottom Left: The fountain which actually is next to the steps.
      Top Right: Almost missed this one, but spotted it on a rewatch.
      Middle Right: The Cathedral looks a bit cleaner these days!
      Bottom Right: Shame the gates were locked.
Back at the hotel we made full use of the spa's sauna and steam room to warm ourselves back up - it was bitterly cold out there!

Hallstatt

A Winter Fairytale Land
After the charm of Salzburg, you'd think that Austria couldn't get any cutier - but it can! Stepping into Hallstatt in the depths of January felt akin to entering a living snow globe, where the biting crispness of the air only served to heighten the visual drama. 
Pastel-coloured 16th-century Alpine houses cling precariously to the steep slopes between the towering Dachstein mountains and the glassy surface of the Hallstätter See, their reflections distorted only by the occasional ripple. While the visual splendour is immediate, the village holds a significance that runs far deeper than its scenic facade. As a UNESCO World Heritage site and the cradle of the Hallstatt culture, its wealth was historically built on the 'white gold' of the world's oldest salt mine which dates back thousands of years. This ethereal beauty has garnered global fame, allegedly serving as the inspiration for the kingdom of Arendelle in Disney's Frozen and appearing in various South Korean dramas. It also featured in the second series of Nine Perfect Strangers.

Graz

Panoramic Perspectives and Gracious History
Our next stop on our Alpine roadtrip was Graz where we started our day in the town by riding the glass lift to the summit of the Schlossberg, where we were greeted by sweeping views over the Mur River and the city’s iconic Uhrturm. This Clock Tower is famous for its confusing clock face where the hour hand is longer than the minute hand. It is also a symbol of local pride, as the citizens of Graz famously paid a ransom to stop Napoleon from destroying it along with the rest of the fortress in 1809. Below us lay the UNESCO-listed historic centre, a striking collection of Gothic and Baroque rooftops. We took the steep funicular ride back down to street level, eager to walk amongst the well-preserved architecture we had admired from above. We were particularly captivated by the Glockenspiel clock which only dates from 1905.
Our hotel in Graz (Parkhotel) offered a seamless blend of historic grandeur and contemporary luxury. It embodied the sophistication of the golden age of European travel - a period when grand tours were the height of fashion and every detail was curated for comfort and the extensive pool and sauna complex provided a welcome sanctuary after all that exploring!

The Dolomites

Italian Style and Snowy Peaks
Crossing the border from Austria into Italy, we watched the landscape transform as the jagged, pale peaks of the Dolomites rose abruptly from the rolling green valleys. This region of South Tyrol offers a landscape of dramatic contrast and unparalleled beauty, famously known as the 'Pale Mountains' due to the unique carbonate rock that glows pink at sunset.
We based ourselves for two nights near the historic market town of Bruneck, checking into a stunning spa hotel (Bonfanti Hotel) that provided the perfect antidote to the winter chill. There is something truly magical about floating in an outdoor heated pool with steam rising into the crisp mountain air, followed by a session in one of the largest saunas we have ever encountered.
Our exploration took us to Cortina d'Ampezzo, the glamorous 'Queen of the Dolomites' and a host city for the 2026 Winter Olympics. It proved to be a charming blend of alpine tradition and Italian style, with beautiful boutiques and historic buildings lining the pedestrianised Corso Italia.
Later we ventured into the Sexten Dolomites nature reserve to get a closer look at the famous rock formations. These mountains are geologically unique, formed of fossilised coral reefs that jut from the earth like jagged teeth, and we found ourselves constantly stopping to admire their vertical scale.
While we had intended to hike to a scenic viewpoint, our plans were derailed when Spencer realised he had dropped his phone en route. Fortunately, a quick retracing of our steps reunited us with the device right where we started. Rather than restarting the walk, we opted for a more adrenaline-fuelled alternative and took the skidoo service to the summit. It proved to be an exhilarating twist to the day, offering a rush of excitement to match the breathtaking scenery.

Arosa Gay Ski Week

Slopes and Celebrations: A Week of Unity in Arosa
The next stage of our journey led us to Arosa, located in the heart of the Swiss Alps, for a week of skiing and revelry with a group of spirited companions. This historic resort, perched at the end of the Schanfigg Valley, has transformed from its origins as a quiet health retreat into a premier destination for those seeking both adventure and camaraderie on the slopes.
Our journey to Arosa led us through the quaint walled town of Glurns - a beautifully preserved medieval settlement nestled in the Val Venosta. Known as the smallest town in the southern Alps, its intact ring walls and historic gate towers remain a testament to its fourteenth-century origins. Wandering through these ancient streets provided a tranquil pause in our travels, offering a vivid connection to the trade routes that once defined this historic alpine corridor.
We also had to take the Rhaetian Railway’s Vereina car transporter connecting Klosters in Prättigau with Sagliains via the 19 km long Vereina Tunnel. This was our second Swiss car-train, the first was last year  when we drove to Grindelwald
One of the highlights was the stunning hotel that James had booked - the BelArosa Hotel. This exceptional establishment presents a luxurious evolution of the traditional Swiss chalet - capturing the intimacy of a timber-clad lodge on a magnificent and sophisticated scale. The meticulous attention to design is evident throughout the property, from the clever use of local materials to the seamless blend of modern luxury and rustic charm. This aesthetic is matched only by the staff, whose genuine warmth and attentive service exemplify the high standards of Swiss hospitality.
Our room was a beautifully curated space, offering an impressive level of comfort and an array of rich textures that invited relaxation after a day in the crisp mountain air. The experience extended well beyond our quarters into the expansive spa complex. This sanctuary of wellness features a variety of relaxation rooms, each designed to provide a different sensory experience. The centrepiece is undoubtedly the stunning pool, which includes a spirited water slide. This playful feature provides a delightful contrast to the serene atmosphere, reminding us that even the most elegant alpine retreats should embrace a sense of fun.
Throughout the week, we (intermittently) took advantage of the exceptional skiing offered by the Arosa Lenzerheide region. This was our first visit to the resort, and we were immediately struck by the sheer scale of the landscape, which boasts over 225 kilometres of interconnected pistes. The runs were meticulously maintained and notably wide in several sections - a feature that allowed for a relaxed and rhythmic style of skiing. However, the terrain also provided several technical challenges that tested our prowess and kept the experience exhilarating. Navigating the high-altitude bowls while surrounded by the jagged peaks of the Grisons felt like a true alpine privilege.
The social calendar of the Arosa Gay Ski Week added a vibrant layer of conviviality to our trip. The event was exceptionally well organised, featuring a diverse range of themed gatherings and specific dress codes that fostered a sense of shared creativity. It was a profound pleasure to interact with attendees from across the globe, turning digital acquaintances into real-world friends and forging new connections within such an inclusive atmosphere. There is something deeply life-affirming about finding a community in such a breathtaking and remote setting.
The organised festivities were a highlight of our stay, with the Splash Pool Party standing out as a particular favourite. Hundreds of guests filled the interconnected pool complex in their finest swimwear, creating an atmosphere of high energy and confidence. Another memorable evening was the traditional Hüttenabend, which required a scenic walk through the snow to reach a secluded mountain hut. Clad in traditional Alpine lederhosen - a garment with deep roots in mountainous farming culture - we enjoyed a rustic Swiss meal in an environment that felt both ancient and celebratory. The week culminated in the elegant White Party and dinner, where the sight of every guest dressed in pristine white against the backdrop of the snowy village created a striking and sophisticated visual finale to our Swiss adventure.
It was a wonderful week and we enjoyed discovering a new ski resort which we barely scratched the surface of. With so much more to explore, we both agreed we would be back. 

Ski Week 3 - A Model Week with Family

As we passed through Zurich, we collected Andre, one of James' premier models and his partner Geena. They were set to accompany us for the third week of our residency in Verbier. Our group expanded further mid-week when we welcomed Spencer’s brother and his wife, along with their daughter and her boyfriend, bringing a vibrant family energy to our mountain retreat.
The week unfolded with a seamless blend of exhilaration on the slopes and refined relaxation. These mountain excursions were naturally interspersed with visits to the region's exceptional restaurants. To balance the indulgence of fine dining, we dedicated several evenings to budget-conscious home cooking.
With such professional talent in our midst, the striking Swiss landscape provided a peerless backdrop for our creative work. We organised several photoshoot sessions featuring Andre and the lovely Geena, utilising the high-altitude light and the dramatic Alpine peaks to create truly evocative imagery.


Ski Week 4 - More Modeling, More Skiing, More Cheese!

The following week marked a delightful shift in pace as we welcomed our friend Ade, who joined Sarah and Phil (who came last year) to complete our group. There is a particular joy in revisiting familiar trails through the eyes of others - especially when they are snowboarders and we're not! We navigated the crisp mountain runs before retreating to the local restaurants or enjoying some home cooked meals thanks to Phil's great cooking skills. 
Beyond the adrenaline of the pistes, we felt drawn back to the serene environment of Les Bains de Lavey. Located near the gateway to the Valais Alps, these baths are fed by the hottest thermal spring in Switzerland, surfacing at a remarkable temperature of approximately 62°C before being cooled for guests. Steaming under the vast, starlit sky, we immersed ourselves in the healing waters.

Les Bains de Lavey, picture grabbed from their website.
Like last week, one of our guests, Ade, was here for a snowy photoshoot. Once again James worked his magic and created an amazing series of sexy photos putting a stunning model in a stunning location. Check out the results yourself:


One memorable evening we took a snow taxi to one of our favourite restaurants - La Marlenaz. We visited this restaurant a few weeks back with Chloe, when we also were luckily enough to hitch a ride back on the snow taxi. This time, it took us on its ascent up the mountain to this charming eatery. As you can see, James and Ade were loving the ride! 

The meal itself was delightful as always, and it was a lovely way to draw this part of our holiday and our time in Verbier to a close. 

Road Trip Home

And just like that, our residence in Verbier reached its natural conclusion. There is always a peculiar melancholy in the final morning of a mountain stay, a sharp contrast between the physical act of packing bags and the lingering warmth of the memories created within those walls. It was a genuine privilege to host our friends and family in such a spectacular setting. Sharing the majesty of the Swiss Alps with loved ones transforms a simple holiday into a memorable occasion. However, the necessity of the journey home beckoned. Rather than opting for the most efficient motorway route, we decided to embrace the spirit of the nomad and chart a course through unfamiliar territory: first to the Black Forrest via Basel and then onto Luxembourg before heading to Calais.

Basel

A City of Thirds
After bidding farewell to Ade at Montreux train station, we turned our sights towards Basel. As Switzerland's third-most-populous city, following Zurich and Geneva, its inclusion in our itinerary meant we had successfully visited the three largest urban centres in the country during this single journey. It's also uniquely located at the intersection of the Swiss, French and German borders on the Rhine River. 
To be honest, while it served as a pleasant location for a lunch stop, we did not immediately warm to the city. This lack of connection was likely a result of the brevity of our stay rather than a fault of the city itself. Basel is a significant cultural hub, famously home to forty museums and a stunning red sandstone Minster that dates back to the 9th century. Although our time was limited, we did manage to spot several beautiful buildings that no doubt possessed many stories to tell within their historic facades. It was a fleeting visit that served as a reminder of how much lies beneath the surface of these ancient European crossroads, even when one is merely passing through.

The Black Forest

Gateau-ing at the Source
For our overnight stop, we crossed the border into Germany and the storied Black Forest region. This area earned its name, the Schwarzwald, from the Romans, who were struck by the dense canopy of evergreens that blocked out much of the light on the forest floor, creating a dark and mysterious atmosphere. Our route climbed steadily into the hills, eventually leading us past a small ski resort. It was a genuine surprise to find ourselves amongst active slopes again, as we had not realised our elevation was still so significant after leaving the high Alps.

Our hotel was situated just outside the quaint town of Schluchsee. This charming locality sits on the shores of the largest lake in the Black Forest, a glacial body of water that is famously the highest reservoir in Germany. Historically, the town has transitioned from a quiet fishing village to a premier destination for hikers and sailors, all while maintaining its traditional Baden-Wuerttemberg character.
Once again, James had curated a truly special experience. The contemporary room was both spacious and extremely comfortable, but the highlight was the hotel spa. We spent our afternoon in a state of complete serenity within the sauna suite and the heated pool.
To conclude the evening, we dined in the hotel brasserie. We enjoyed a selection of local dishes, though the choice of dessert was never in question. It simply had to be Black Forest Gateau. Known locally as Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, this indulgent cake is strictly regulated by German law, which mandates the inclusion of Kirschwasser - a clear cherry schnapps - to earn its prestigious name. Savouring a slice in its ancestral home was the perfect addition to our German detour.

Luxembourg 

The Gibraltar of the North
After a marvelous breakfast and a final dip in the hotel pool, we hit the road and progressed north into France. Our route carried us past Strasbourg before we crossed into the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, eventually arriving in its capital, Luxembourg City. Once again, our accommodation proved to be a statement in quality hospitality. We were delighted by our beautifully appointed quarters, housed in a historic building that retained several original features, which added a distinct sense of old-style luxury to our stay.
The city itself proved to be very walkable, and we wasted no time in exploring our new surroundings. Luxembourg City is unique for its dramatic topography, defined by the deep gorges cut by the Alzette and Petrusse rivers. The oldest part of the city, where we were based, sits atop a sandstone plateau. Much of the formidable fortifications remain intact today; these were once so extensive that the city was known as the Gibraltar of the North before the 1867 Treaty of London mandated their partial demolition.
As we navigated the cobbled streets, we took in the Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of the Grand Duke, which features a stunning 16th-century Flemish Renaissance facade. We also visited the Notre-Dame Cathedral, a fine example of late Gothic architecture, and the Castle Bridge, which connects the upper city to the Bock Casemates. Descending from the heights, we explored The Grund, a picturesque district located at the bottom of the gorge. Standing amongst these ancient stone walls, it was easy to feel the weight of a millennium of European history.

Homeward Bound

And so the time had come to enjoy one last hotel breakfast (delightful as always) and begin the journey towards the port of Calais. 
Upon reaching the Eurotunnel terminal at Coquelles, we shared a brief moment of self-congratulation. We remarked on how remarkably smooth the entire expedition had been, with the car performing perfectly and our navigation remaining flawless. In a stroke of classic travel irony, we were immediately met with a two hour delay. 
Despite the stationary wait on the tarmac, our spirits remained high. A few hours of delay cannot tarnish the brilliance of a journey that has redefined our appreciation for the natural world. This trip has been a collection of breathtaking vistas and shared laughter that we will carry with us long after we return to the familiar streets of Bristol. We are immensely grateful to everyone who joined us on this adventure and contributed to making it such a memorable chapter in our lives.

A photograph taken at L'Ecurie Restaurant, Verbier and printed as a special memento of a very special trip. 

Quite a few places visited and a great number of hotels! 

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