Day 1 - Bristol to Verbier
6:30am, was the starting time for our epic 15-hour odyssey from Bristol to the heart of the Swiss Alps. Our mission: to reach Verbier, a place synonymous with stunning mountain vistas and exhilarating adventures and of course, home to the Critchley family chalet.
The first leg of our journey, from Bristol to Folkestone for the Eurotunnel, was remarkably smooth. We breezed through the British countryside, making excellent time – a mere two and a half hours – which thankfully snagged us an earlier crossing. Did you know the Channel Tunnel is the longest undersea tunnel in the world, stretching for 50.45 kilometres?
Once on French soil, we set our sights south, journeying through the rolling landscapes of north-eastern France. Our first proper stretch and a chance to meet up with our friend joining us for the trip was in Reims. While our time there was brief, the small glimpse we caught was utterly charming. The bustling avenue of cafes, impressive monuments, and the inviting central park opposite the station painted a picture of a city we'd love to explore more thoroughly one day. Reims, of course, is also world-renowned as the unofficial capital of the Champagne region. Imagine all the bubbly!
Back on the road, we continued our southward descent through the rest of France. As we neared the Swiss border, a dramatic shift occurred. The surprisingly warm weather we'd enjoyed all day suddenly gave way to menacing thunderclouds and heavy showers.
Coupled with the fading light, it made for an incredibly dramatic, albeit slightly foreboding, entrance into Switzerland. The towering peaks, shrouded in mist and illuminated by flashes of lightning, hinted at the raw beauty that awaited us.
Finally, at 10:30pm, we pulled into our destination: Verbier. Tired but undeniably happy to have arrived, we swiftly unloaded the car. A quick debrief, filled with tales from the road, was all that was needed before we gratefully collapsed into bed, ready for a well-earned rest and eager to see what mountain adventures the morning would bring.
Day 2 - Verbier
After yesterday's epic journey, today's agenda was blissfully simple: relax, unwind, and acclimatise. We embraced a much-needed lie-in, eventually emerging for the essential morning teas and coffees. Our furry companion, Bruno, then dictated our first activity – a leisurely stroll around Verbier to help him get his bearings.
Being out of season, and a Sunday to boot, Verbier was remarkably quiet. Most shops and restaurants were closed, giving the village a peaceful, almost sleepy, atmosphere. For James and me, it's always fascinating to see Verbier stripped of its snowy blanket, revealing a different kind of beauty.
Later, we hopped in the car and ascended the winding mountain roads to Croix du Coeur. The views from here, stretching across the sprawling valley, were as breathtaking as ever. Despite a less-than-perfect forecast for the week, the weather was firmly on our side, with glorious sunshine illuminating the dramatic peaks.
By now, lunch was calling, and we made our way to one of our favourite Verbier haunts, La Marmotte. We'd wisely made a reservation and were rewarded with a prime spot on the outdoor terrace, offering uninterrupted views across the sun-drenched valley. The sun continued to beat down, and this is where a crucial mountain lesson was subtly, yet firmly, re-taught.
It's vital to remember that the sun at high altitudes is significantly more potent. Its rays are less filtered by the atmosphere, meaning you can burn much more easily. It came as no surprise, then, that all three of us returned to the chalet feeling a little queasy and washed out – mild sunstroke had certainly set in! Thankfully, an afternoon nap was all that was needed to sort us out.
Dinner was a simple, comforting affair: tuna pasta made with some of the essentials we'd brought from home. The rest of the evening continued in the same relaxed vein, filled with easy conversation and a bit of TV. A perfect end to a day of rest and re-energising in the Alps.
Day 3 - Sion & Underground Lake
Our first mission today was to uphold our promise of hitting the gym while in Switzerland. So, we ventured 30 minutes down the road to Martigny, home to the only gym we could find that offered day passes. Luckily, it was a fantastic gym with a great range of equipment, allowing all three of us to get in a really good workout.
Feeling virtuous and suitably energised, it was time to resume our sightseeing. We drove to the picturesque town of Sion. Here, we tackled one of the twin hills overlooking the town, ascending to the impressive ruins of Tourbillon Castle. It dates back to the 13th century and was once the residence of the Bishops of Sion. Its strategic position offered commanding views of the Rhone Valley, making it a crucial defensive stronghold.
Lunch in Sion was a simple yet delightful affair, enjoyed al fresco as we watched the world go by. Our next stop was a bit more practical, as we embarked on some research at building materials and design shops. We're excitedly gathering ideas for tiles, flooring, and wall coverings for our upcoming chalet renovations. It's incredibly exciting to imagine how colours and materials can transform a space into a luxurious and welcoming alpine retreat.
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| Petrified tree tables - great Stiletto shoe bath - no great! |
Afterwards, we uncovered one of the area's true hidden gems: the Underground Lake of St-Léonard. This natural wonder is truly captivating. Interestingly, it's the largest underground lake in Europe, stretching for around 300 metres. We explored its serene waters by rowboat, gliding through the cavern illuminated by subtle lighting, revealing the geological formations above. It's a truly unique and tranquil experience.
Back at the chalet, it was time to welcome another friend, Chris, who arrived on his new motorbike after an impressive trip around northern France and The Netherlands. After his long journey, a chilled evening was definitely in order. We had a fantastic time over a delicious chicken dinner, expertly cooked by Bruno.
Day 4 - Gorges du Durnand & Champex Lac
This morning, our group initially split up. James and Bruno were off to the gym, while Chris and I explored the local town of Martigny. The plan was for me to keep Chris company while the others worked out. However, things didn't quite go to plan! The gym desk was unstaffed, leaving James and Bruno unable to sign in, so our exercise plans were cut short.
Not to worry, though – we had plenty more exciting activities lined up for the day! Our first stop was the magnificent Les Gorges du Durnand. These dramatic gorges were carved out over millennia by the relentless power of the Durnand river, eroding the limestone rock to create a spectacular chasm. The sheer force of the water over countless centuries has sculpted the rock into incredible formations, revealing layers of geological history.
The wooden walkways and staircases clinging precariously to the sides of the gorge provided a truly spectacular platform from which to view the breathtaking scenes of water cascading through this narrow, rocky landscape. It's not for the faint-hearted in places, especially if you're a little nervous of heights, but the awe-inspiring sights made every shaky step worthwhile. We all made it to the end of the trail, feeling incredibly grateful to have witnessed such natural grandeur.
Next on our agenda was a delightful lunch stop at a lakeside café we know on the shores of Lac de Champex. Nestled around this magnificent alpine lake, the village has cultivated a tradition of warm hospitality for over a century. It's aptly nicknamed "Little Swiss Canada" with its vast forests, crystal-clear lake, and traditional wooden chalets – a truly idyllic setting. After a delicious lunch, we took the obligatory stroll around the lake, soaking in the stunning vistas from every angle.
The garden is a horticultural treasure, boasting over 4,000 species of plants flourishing across more than 6,000 square metres. These include local flora, species from surrounding regions, and plants from mountain ranges across Europe and other continents. There was certainly enough to inspire anyone wanting to create their own garden – something James and I will definitely be bearing in mind for our future landscaping projects!
Day 5 - Val Ferret
Today's forecast promised intermittent showers and a noticeable drop in temperature, so we opted for a simple excursion and a walk. Our initial destination, however, was thwarted by a closed bridge. Despite attempting an alternative route, it quickly became clear it wasn't feasible, forcing us to pivot our plans.
So, we settled on the charming hamlet of Ferret, nestled in the Swiss Val Ferret on the southern side of the Rhône valley in Valais. Like many valley towns outside of ski season, it was rather deserted. In winter, it's a haven for skiers and cross-country enthusiasts exploring the valley. But in summer, we were pleasantly surprised to find a restaurant open for a light lunch – and we were their only customers!
Before lunch, though, we took a walk further up the valley, soaking in the spectacular views from the valley floor. The valley winds its way beneath the Pré de Bar glacier and the towering Grandes Jorasses. The Dora di Ferret stream flows through its heart. For nearly seven centuries, the Val Ferret was under the authority of the local Hospice (a place that offers community accommodation and meals - not end of life care!) They had the right to harvest wood here, providing much-needed income for the valley's inhabitants. The cut wood was even transported to the hospice via the Pas des Chevaux pass, a high mountain route named because horses and mules carried the timber over it.
Day 6 - Gruyères & Montreux
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| I may have got AI to sort out the sky! |
Today was a day for returning to one of my absolute favourite places: Gruyères. To me, it truly is a chocolate-box village, and its hilltop location just amplifies its storybook charm. You genuinely feel like you've stepped into a Disney movie, practically itching to start singing "Little town, it's a quiet village...". We were blessed with glorious sunshine once again, which only added to the idyllic beauty of the place.
One fascinating oddity of this otherwise picturesque village is that amongst all this beauty lies something quite sinister and macabre. I'm not talking about the medieval castle – which is now a stunning historical landmark, though we've yet to explore its interior. No, Gruyères is home to the H.R. Giger Museum, displaying hundreds of artefacts by the visionary Swiss artist H.R. Giger, best known, of course, for designing the iconic creature in the film Alien. After countless visits to the 400-year-old walled medieval town, H.R. Giger fell in love with this wonderful region. When he discovered that the Château St. Germain, a fortress located further down the hill, was for sale, the idea was born to establish his own museum and centre for fantastic art right here. On this particular visit, we didn't venture inside the museum, but we did enjoy a refreshing beer in the neighbouring bar, which has been fantastically decorated in Giger's signature alien style – a truly unique experience.
After a thoroughly pleasant morning in Gruyères, we then headed to the lakeside town of Montreux. This is a traditional resort town nestled on the shores of Lake Geneva, known for its incredibly mild microclimate, protected by the steep hills behind it and the expansive lake in front. It's also globally renowned for the Montreux Jazz Festival, which they were busily setting up for during our visit – you could feel the buzz of anticipation in the air. We enjoyed a delightful stroll along the lakeside promenade, taking in the serene views across the vast expanse of the lake, before settling down for a wonderful lunch, enjoying some excellent people-watching as we dined.
After lunch, we felt little inclination for anything strenuous, choosing instead to gently stroll back the way we came and make our way back to Verbier. Our evening, however, was about to become even more chilled and relaxed. After a quick freshen-up, we headed back out and drove to another of my personal favourites in this area: Les Bains de Lavey, the famous thermal baths boasting the hottest thermal water in Switzerland. We absolutely revelled in experiencing the therapeutic waters in the various outdoor pools, soothing jacuzzis, invigorating waterfalls, bubbling whirlpool beds, and even the (surprisingly fast!) lazy river course. We also took advantage of the oriental hammams and Nordic saunas, feeling the stresses of the day melt away. Needless to say, we returned to the chalet thoroughly relaxed and all enjoyed a truly magnificent night's sleep.
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| Not my photo - not wise to take your phone into a public swimming bath! But you can see how magical this place is. |
Day 7 - Grindelwald
Today was a day of goodbyes and new beginnings. Chris bid us farewell, setting off on his motorbike for the journey home, a trip that takes considerably longer by bike than by car, especially with his planned detours en route.
We too were leaving the chalet and hitting the road, but our destination was the picture-perfect, mountainous Swiss town of Grindelwald. It's quite a journey, taking about three hours through some truly stunning countryside. Part of this journey involved a unique experience: the Autoverlad Lötschberg. This is a car transporter train that takes you through the Bernese Alps from Goppenstein to Kandersteg. It's a ride of about 20 minutes through a 14.612-kilometre (9.079-mile) long tunnel, where cars are loaded onto open-sided train carriages before being pulled through. It was certainly an unexpected and efficient way to travel through the mountains!
Upon arriving in beautiful Grindelwald, we quickly found our hotel, which was literally right next to the railway station – you could walk straight off the platform and into reception! We wasted no time in going for a wander through the picturesque town, admiring the truly stunning mountainous scenery that surrounds it. We enjoyed a lovely light lunch with the most breathtaking views as our backdrop.
After wandering around town and getting our bearings, we hopped back in the car and headed down the Lauterbrunnen valley to see the impressive Staubbach Falls. Plummeting 300 metres, it's the third-highest waterfall in Switzerland. In the summer, warm winds swirl the water around, causing the falls to spray in all directions. These fine droplets of water gave the brook and the waterfall its name – 'Staub' means 'dust' in German. We walked up the path that leads you through tunnels, emerging right next to the thundering water. Yes, we got quite wet, but it was absolutely worth it for the incredible views and the immersive experience.
A delicious spare ribs dinner in a local restaurant in town brought our amazing day to an end, and a wonderful room awaited us in our hotel, promising a restful night.
Day 8 - Grindelwald and Jungfraujoch
At the summit, a fantastic experience awaited us. There's a brilliant combination of attractions, including an awe-inspiring ice palace filled with intricate sculptures, engaging presentations, and various walks that allow you to truly experience the majestic environment. When you step outside, you're greeted by a panoramic vista. On one side, you can see across the Swiss Plateau all the way to France, while on the other, the vast Aletsch Glacier stretches out, flanked by towering four-thousand-metre peaks. Today, the cloud did get in the way a bit, but you could still strongly sense the grandeur of the location, and we certainly noticed how thin the air had become at that altitude!
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| Left: looking down off the observation deck onto birds below & a 13,000ft drop! |
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| Okay, not my picture but it would be a shame not to show you what we visited! |
This trip, from the quaint charm of Gruyères to the dramatic heights of Jungfraujoch, has been a truly unforgettable adventure. Switzerland, with its breathtaking landscapes and unexpected delights, has once again captured our hearts, leaving us refreshed, re-energised, and already dreaming of our next alpine escape.
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