Day 1 Bristol to Cheshire
We set off from home mid-morning, and the drive up the motorway was surprisingly straightforward. The traffic gods were smiling upon us, and we made excellent time.
Our first stop was Cheshire Oaks outlet village, a treasure trove of shops where the mission was to find something suitably stylish for the lovely hotels we had booked. James managed to bag a rather dashing jacket and a smart pair of shoes, giving him quite the country gentleman vibe. Look out for it in some of the photos that are coming up!
Arriving in the city, we checked into our hotel, a beautifully renovated classic railway hotel that exuded comfort and charm. A quick wander around town followed, the primary goal being to complete James' new ensemble with some jeans and a belt.
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| Some of Chester's fabulous architecture. |
Later, we met up with James' brother, Damian, for some delightful cocktails with a view overlooking the river. The evening then progressed to Rio Steakhouse, where Damian and his family joined us. The endless parade of succulent meats, carved right at our table, left us thoroughly satisfied. We rounded off the night with late-night chats and a bit of telly back at Damian's house before finally heading back to our hotel for a wonderfully sound sleep.
Day 2: Cheshire to Loch Lomond - Scottish Borders and Lakeside Luxury
A lovely breakfast at the hotel set us up perfectly for the day before we checked out and began our drive north. We crossed the border into Scotland near Gretna Green – no spontaneous elopement this time, though!
We arrived at Loch Lomond just after lunchtime and enjoyed a brief stroll around part of the loch and the marina development. It seemed like everyone was making the most of the Bank Holiday with lakeside picnics.
Our next stop was the magnificent Cameron House hotel, nestled on the shores of the loch. This stunning converted castle is now a sumptuous hotel boasting beautifully appointed rooms, lounges, and restaurants. We soaked in our surroundings with a light lunch outdoors, perfect for people-watching. There were two weddings taking place, adding to the elegant atmosphere with guests in their finery and plenty of handsome young men in kilts! The afternoon was spent indulging in the hotel's pool and enormous hot tub before a workout in their very well-equipped gym. It was rather surreal to spot Ruby Wax also enjoying a workout – we even saw her later taking a bracing dip in the loch!
Our evening meal was in the hotel's lovely Italian restaurant – so good that we shared three main courses between us as we simply couldn't choose! Afterwards, it was back to our very comfortable room to relax with some television and catch up on a couple of shows. The plan for tomorrow is an early start to photograph the sunrise across the loch… fingers crossed!
Day 3: Loch Lomond to Fort William - Missed Sunrise, Highland Majesty
Well, the sunrise mission didn't quite go to plan! It turned out to be around half five in the morning, so capturing that amazing spectacle on camera was a definite non-starter. Instead, we enjoyed a nice, leisurely start to the day with the most incredible breakfast imaginable.
It was genuinely one of the best breakfasts we've ever had. We followed this with a morning stroll along the loch – and there was Ms Wax again, braving another dip in the chilly waters! The hotel grounds looked stunning in the bright, warm morning sun.
Suitably fuelled, we packed up and hit the road, heading north towards Fort William. Our first stop was the Falls of Falloch, where we paused to admire their cascading beauty.
The drive then took us through the breathtaking scenery of the Scottish Highlands. We passed the majestic Three Sisters mountains and wound our way through the dramatic Glencoe pass. We stopped at the Glencoe Mountain resort and took the chairlift up the mountain, followed by a walk to the summit of Creag Dubh. The weather was simply glorious, with crystal-clear skies offering spectacular panoramic views across the landscape.
Onwards to Fort William, where we took a break to wander along the high street and do a little shopping. Spencer was tempted by a rather handsome £325 Harris Tweed jacket, but resisted! Our next aim was to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct, famous for its appearance in the Harry Potter films. However, due to a local event and the sheer number of visitors, the car park was full and closed. Slightly deflated, we headed back and had a quick look around Old Inverlochy Castle. Sadly, it was fenced off due to unstable stonework, but it was still an interesting glimpse into the past.
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| If you look closely, you can see the viaduct in the distance (left). |
Our evening meal was a delicious Indian feast at a newly opened restaurant, and our hotel provided a very comfortable haven at the end of a long day and a wonderful view across the neighbouring loch (Loch Eil).
Day 4: Fort William to the Isle of Skye - Waterfalls, Frustrations, and Island Wonders
Another hearty breakfast set us up perfectly after a great night's sleep. We started our day with a morning walk to Steall Waterfall. The gorge walk itself offered fantastic views, eventually opening out to reveal the impressive cascade.
Interestingly, this location also featured in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire – it's where Harry faces the Hungarian Horntail dragon during the Triwizard Tournament, for any fellow Potterheads out there!
After this, we attempted to visit the Glenfinnan Viaduct again – and again, the car park was completely full. So frustrating, especially as it was only 10 o'clock! Never mind, onwards to more excitement.
Next on our list was the Isle of Skye. Our initial plan was to take the road bridge at the island's north-eastern tip. However, our detour to the viaduct meant Google Maps suggested heading to the south-eastern tip instead. Happy to oblige, we followed its directions, completely missing the crucial detail that this route involved a ferry crossing!
Driving around the island was truly breathtaking. The scenery was so reminiscent of parts of New Zealand we'd visited, with its mountainous landscapes, wide valley floors, and spectacular coastal roads.
We stopped for lunch in Portree, a picturesque village with brightly coloured houses lining the quayside.
Our next hotel was another gem. This time, the main house had a distinctly castle-like feel, and our room boasted the most wonderful view of the River Snizort. The hotel's interior was full of character, with wooden panelling, a grand staircase, and a magnificent grand piano that, of course, James had to play!
The afternoon brought more adventure as we headed to the magical Fairy Glen. This enchanting spot, dotted with gnarled rowan trees, was formed over 100,000 years ago by post-glacial landslides. Years of erosion have sculpted the Torridonian sandstone into unusual cone-shaped hillocks, random boulders, tranquil lochans, and even a basalt castle. Today, it exudes a mystical charm, with visitors often laying out stones in circular patterns, suggesting the work of fairy folk.
As we headed back to the hotel, we made one last stop at Lealt Falls, a mesmerising and beautiful double-drop waterfall.
We retired to our luxurious accommodation and enjoyed a wonderful evening dining in their amazing restaurant, followed by romantic sunset views across the river from our balcony.
Day 5: Isle of Skye to Loch Ness - Castle Hopping and Lochside Charm
A recurring theme of this trip has been the magnificent breakfasts, and this morning was no exception. Every hotel we've stayed in has offered incredible morning feasts, and the welcoming and friendly nature of our hosts and the hotel staff has been a real highlight.
After our brilliant breakfast, we embarked on our "Castles Day," starting with Dunvegan Castle on the Isle of Skye.
Unlike many castles that are now ruins, Dunvegan has been lovingly restored between 1840 and 1850, presenting an impressive and imposing sight.
Leaving the picturesque Isle of Skye behind, we felt incredibly fortunate with the weather – glorious sunshine all the way, allowing us to truly appreciate the magnificent landscapes of this part of the world. It really is stunning.
Next on our list was Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. While still a ruin, having been blown up during the Jacobite Risings, our experience began with a very informative and seemingly high-budget film detailing the castle's history. The presentation ended dramatically with the cinema curtains drawing back to reveal the ruined castle beyond the window.
Finally, we drove further along the shore of the famous Loch Ness to our accommodation, which once again did not disappoint. We are staying in a charming boutique hotel overlooking the loch, and yes, our room has a fantastic view! Our host was incredibly welcoming, and the level of comfort and attention to detail is truly impressive.
Day 6: Loch Ness to John O'Groats - Coastal Drives and Northernmost Points
Once back on the road, we were blessed with stunning views as we headed north, mainly along the coast. We were constantly taken aback by the glorious sunshine and the breathtaking views across the sea from the coastal road.
Inverness served as a practical stop on our journey, and while it had its pleasant moments, it didn't quite capture our imaginations in the way some other spots did. We found it to be a decent enough town to explore for a short while as we passed through the Highlands.
En route to John O'Groats, we stopped off at Dunrobin Castle – yes, another castle! This time, the castle boasted outstanding formal gardens and a fantastic view out to sea. We were also treated to an informative and awe-inspiring falconry display. Seeing these magnificent birds in flight, their aerial manoeuvrability was simply stunning. The inside of the castle was equally magnificent, and we enjoyed exploring the rooms and their appointments. There was even a dumb waiter and a very early electric service elevator!
We then carried on, heading to Wick, which felt a little deserted and run down. However, speaking to locals, there seem to be plans in place to rejuvenate the town centre.
After Wick, it was on to the main event – John O'Groats itself, widely considered the most northerly point of mainland UK. Of course, we took the obligatory photos at the famous signpost and enjoyed the view across the blue waters towards Orkney.
Our lodgings for the night were the most amazing cute pod – a beautifully decorated and luxuriously fitted-out wooden chalet. We love anything cute, and this felt like sleeping in our own little Hobbit hole, but in the middle of a field surrounded by sheep, cows, and beautiful blue skies. There was even a separate hut with an indoor BBQ and seating, which would be fantastic for winter roasts!
Day 7: John O'Groats to Aberdeen - Highland Views and City Grandeur
The glorious mornings continued, with our wake-up call today being a stunning sunrise and the gentle sound of lambs in the fields surrounding our luxury pod. We awoke to this idyllic charm and enjoyed a simple breakfast, a novelty after all the amazing cooked breakfasts we'd had. After packing up and clearing the cabin, we set off for one of our longest drives of the trip.
The breathtaking scenery we passed through kept us completely mesmerised. We headed across the most north-easterly tip of Scotland before joining the coast and then heading south towards Inverness, retracing some of our steps from yesterday.
Perched on dramatic, windswept cliffs we stopped off at Badbea Historical Village which offered a poignant glimpse into the harsh lives of families evicted during the Highland Clearances. The atmospheric ruins of their stone crofts stand as a stark reminder of this challenging chapter in Scottish history and the resilience of the people who once called this clifftop home.
We then crossed the Moray Firth and headed eastwards through the Cairngorms National Park. This is where we stopped for lunch – at the UK's highest restaurant, The Ptarmigan Restaurant, perched at 1,097m (3,599ft). To get there, we took the 2km funicular railway up to the summit – Scotland's only mountain railway.
Returning to the car, we resumed our journey and headed across to Aberdeen, arriving at yet another glorious hotel for the night. This one exuded the grand opulence of a bygone era with its magnificent wooden staircase, highly decorated wood panelling, and charming window alcoves, all complemented by wonderful staff and a great restaurant.
Day 8: Aberdeen to Edinburgh - Gym Visits, Abbey Ruins, and City Lights
Today was a lighter day in terms of planned activities, but we still had a reasonable distance to cover, so there was a fair bit of driving involved. We started as we have almost every day of this trip (bar one) with a wonderful hotel cooked breakfast. After checking out, we headed a short distance down the road to the local David Lloyd gym for a workout! As members and with the club being so close to our hotel, it seemed both appropriate and necessary (after all those breakfasts!) to pay a visit. We both had a good workout, and this particular club has one of the best ranges of machines and weights of any gym we've visited. Afterwards, we indulged in their lovely hot tub and spa – well, it would have been rude not to!
Then it was time to hit the road and head towards our first stop – Arbroath. We were meeting up with one of James' friends, John, who kindly showed us around the town, including the remains of Arbroath Abbey. This medieval monastery is now largely in ruins, with a surviving church facade and precinct walls, plus the abbot's house. It also houses an exhibition and a replica of the Declaration of Arbroath, a letter dated 6 April 1320 written by the barons and freeholders of the Kingdom of Scotland to Pope John XXII, asking for his help in establishing Scotland's independence from the English monarchy. We certainly learned a bit more about Scottish history.
After a lovely lunch and catching up with John, it was time to drive again, this time heading to Edinburgh. The drive took us past some impressive sights, including the Forth Bridge – one of the most famous symbols of Scotland. Although our view of it as we crossed the Queensferry Crossing was somewhat obscured by safety barriers and the Forth Road Bridge, it was still good to see.
On arrival in Edinburgh, the satnav took us right to the heart of the city and to the top of the Royal Mile, to our accommodation for the night – a converted old bakery that now boasts pure luxury spread over three floors.
This place was quirky and comfortable in equal measure. To say this place was outstanding wouldn't do it justice. It was quite simply one of the loveliest places we've stayed in - even if the toilet on the middle floor was a bit too exposed and throne-like for our tastes! Certainly the company behind this complex of stunning rooms and apartments, didn't leave any details undone. We would love to return.
For the evening, we were meeting another friend, Tracey, and together we enjoyed some amazing cocktails and a fabulous meal. It was a wonderful introduction to this cool city.
Day 9: Edinburgh - History, Sightseeing, and Culinary Delights
One of the features of sleeping in an old stone bakery with thick stone walls is that it becomes incredibly dark when the curtains are drawn and the lights are out! This makes for a wonderfully deep and long lie-in!
So, we awoke fully refreshed and ready for a full day of exploring Edinburgh.
We started with breakfast in town at The Deacon's House, a famous Scottish café near Edinburgh Castle. It's believed that the present café was once the workshop of Deacon Brodie. William Brodie was a well-known and respected cabinet-maker by day and, by night, a gambler, drinker, and thief, robbing his clients using copies of keys he made while working in their shops. His life inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write "Jekyll and Hyde." Nowadays, you can read his story painted on the café wall, spanning from 1745 to 1788, and admire the historical building.
We then headed to the castle to check on tickets and weren't surprised to find that today's were sold out, but we did manage to secure some for tomorrow.
Next up, we hopped on one of the red sightseeing buses that are a familiar sight in cities worldwide. We find them a great way to get an overview of a city and handy for hopping on and off. We enjoyed the audio tour as we meandered through the historic streets and decided to alight at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. The tour guided us through room after room filled with great history, and it was fascinating to see rooms and hear about events that we had previously only witnessed on television. Unfortunately, photography wasn't allowed inside, but we were able to take some photos of the exterior and the ruined abbey that sits alongside.
We jumped back on the tour bus and continued our journey through the city. The weather remained kind, and it was lovely to see all the sights of the city in the afternoon sunshine.
We had a late lunch reservation at The Witchery by the Castle, housed in Boswell's Court, which was built in 1595 for merchant Thomas Lowthian and later named after John Boswell – an eccentric physician who lived there and entertained his nephew James Boswell and Dr Johnson, the man who wrote the first English dictionary. The food was delicious and so beautifully presented. Every mouthful was a delight, and our surroundings were so charming and quirky.
Day 10: Edinburgh to York - Castle Grandeur and a Fond Farewell
Our final full day of the trip began with a visit to Edinburgh Castle. We were struck by the sheer size and winding layout of this fortress perched atop an old volcanic plug! The crowds were a bit of a nuisance, but we managed to navigate our way around this historic treasure trove, adding to our growing knowledge of Scottish history and the power struggles faced by the monarchy on both sides of the border.
We saw the beautiful Honours of Scotland – the country's Crown Jewels – and it was rather humbling to see artefacts that have passed through the hands of so many kings and queens. A new addition to the collection is The Elizabeth Sword, named after the late Queen Elizabeth. It was commissioned to replace the now rather delicate and fragile Sword of State, also referred to as the Papal Sword. We also visited St Margaret's Chapel, and the formidable Mons Meg (a massive medieval siege gun) the Royal Palace, the Scottish National War Memorial, a poignant and moving tribute to the Scots who have served in conflicts throughout history, its solemn halls inspiring quiet reflection. Sadly, our time at the castle was drawing to a close, and we had to leave just before the firing of the famous one o'clock gun, a tradition dating back to 1861 that originally served to allow ships in the Firth of Forth to set their maritime clocks.
Afterwards, it was a case of hitting the road and heading south towards York. We felt a little pang of sadness as we crossed the border back into England, a testament to how much we had enjoyed our time in Scotland, and we vowed to return to explore more of its captivating landscapes and rich history.
In the evening, we enjoyed a fantastic meal where we caught up with Charlie, one of James' long-term collaborators. It was wonderful to share updates and reminisce over all the amazing photos and creative projects they have worked on together over the years.
We have had the most amazing trip around Scotland, and we both know we will be back to explore even more – both to revisit our favourite highlights and to discover new experiences and wonders that this incredible country has to offer.
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