Day 1: From London to a Rainy Bergen Welcome
Our Norwegian adventure kicked off with a classic travel challenge: a slightly delayed flight from London Heathrow to Amsterdam's gargantuan Schiphol airport. That meant less than an hour to sprint across the terminal, navigate passport control, and make it to our connecting flight to Bergen. We definitely earned our steps for the day, practically flying through the airport ourselves, but we made it with not a second to spare!
We were surprised by how early the travel fatigue set in; it was only half past seven in the evening UK time. But that's the reality of a full day of travel! So, we retreated to the comfort of our hotel for a cosy evening snuggled in bed, catching up on some TV. What a start to our Norwegian escapade!
Day 2 - A Day of Exploration and Luxurious Beginnings in Bergen
Our day in Bergen began with an invigorating workout in the hotel gym at 7:30 am. It was important to us to maintain our fitness routine whilst travelling and the hotel's small but well-equipped gym certainly allowed for a good full-body session.
Breakfast was a truly delightful affair, served in the breathtaking dining room that once served as the main hub of the Bergen Stock Exchange. We consider ourselves rather adept at navigating a buffet breakfast, but this one stood out as exceptional, particularly for its superb selection of fruits and yoghurts. My personal highlight was the array of fresh berries – a perfect start to the day.With our cruise not departing until early evening, we had ample time to further explore the charming city of Bergen. We ventured down streets we had not yet discovered, enjoying the diverse array of shops. One of our key missions for the day was an "umbrella hunt." After yesterday's rain, we decided it would be a wise investment for our upcoming excursions off the ship. Bergen, known for its significant rainfall (it's one of the wettest cities in Europe, receiving around 2250 mm of precipitation annually!), certainly reinforced the need for good rain gear.
A lovely, light French-style lunch provided welcome shelter from a few passing downpours. Before we knew it, it was time to make our way to the cruise's departure dock for check-in. The process was remarkably smooth and seamless, especially as we were able to take advantage of priority boarding, a perk of booking a suite.
Following a brief but informative safety briefing video, we were finally allowed to embark on the ship. The moment of stepping on board for the first time was nothing short of magical and incredibly exciting. We were eager to explore all of its facilities: the gym, the sauna, the various decks, and of course, the inviting hot tubs. However, patience was a virtue, as our cabins would not be available for a few hours, despite our keen anticipation to see what we had booked.
Finally, the moment arrived to head to our cabins, where our luggage had already been delivered. The room exceeded all expectations! We were immediately struck by the sheer amount of space, and the enormous bay window offered a glorious sense of luxury and openness. Having a walk-in wardrobe was a fantastic bonus, allowing us to completely unpack our suitcases and neatly hang all our coats and jackets. The bathroom was equally impressive, featuring both a shower and a bath – a true indulgence! As a welcome gift, we were treated to a bottle of champagne, stylish wooden key rings and coasters, a mini charcuterie board, and a selection of delicious nibbles. It certainly felt like we were starting the cruise off in style!
As we savoured our meal, the ship gently slipped out of port, gliding effortlessly into the wider seas. It was a serene and beautiful departure, marking the true beginning of our Norwegian adventure.
For our evening's entertainment, we had the pleasure of meeting the Captain and key crew members. They then provided an insightful overview of tomorrow's excursion, along with some important housekeeping information. This session was incredibly informative and certainly left us eager for the adventures that awaited us tomorrow! But first it was time to get some rest and experience our first night cruising together (go on, make the obvious joke, I'll allow it!).
Day 3 - Rocked by the Sea, Awed by the Fjords
Day three dawned with a gentle rocking motion, a new sensation for us as the ship ventured further into the open sea. We had been forewarned that the tail end of Storm Floris, which had recently battered Scotland and Norway, might make things a little choppier. Thankfully, it wasn't too severe, more of a comforting cradle than a tumultuous toss. We slept surprisingly well, lulled by the rhythmic sway, and woke to a truly magnificent view from our bay window – a fitting start to a day of exploration.
Breakfast was a strategic refuelling mission, as we anticipated being out and about for most of the day on our first excursion. As expected, a good selection of fish was on offer, but after the night's gentle rocking, we craved something more substantial. Porridge, fresh fruit and creamy yoghurt proved to be the perfect carb-based solution to set us up for the adventures ahead.
Our initial plan was to hit the gym, and we were up in good time. However, with the boat still swaying, the thought of throwing dumbbells around seemed ill-advised, to say the least! Instead, we opted for some press-ups and sit-ups in the cabin, followed by a refreshing stroll up on deck to fully appreciate the stunning vistas unfolding around us.
The highlight of our day was undoubtedly our first excursion. Due to stringent environmental regulations, cruise ships that don't meet strict green emission standards are prohibited from entering the famous Geirangerfjord. So, we docked in the remarkably pretty town of Ålesund, a gem in itself. From there, we boarded a comfortable coach that whisked us inland towards the fjord. The journey was punctuated by several stops, each offering breathtaking panoramic views that simply defied description.
Our coach then stopped at the highlight - the view point looking down on the Geirangerfjord. It is one of those moments that genuinely stops you in your tracks. The sheer scale of it is hard to process; colossal, green-dusted cliffs just plunge vertically into the impossibly deep, dark blue water. You can spot waterfalls like white ribbons spilling down the rock face, and way down below, a cruise ship that looks like a bath toy gives you a real sense of the immensity of it all. It’s the kind of epic, raw scenery that makes you feel incredibly small, and you just know that no photo you take will ever quite do it justice.
We then descended further down into the valley to the head of the fjord, where we transferred to a ferry-style boat for the return journey, sailing all the way back to Ålesund along the fjord. This allowed us another unique perspective of Geirangerfjord. The scenery throughout was utterly captivating. We passed the iconic Seven Sisters waterfalls, a truly unique natural wonder composed of seven distinct streams cascading down the mountainside, creating a majestic display of nature's power. It’s said that these seven streams symbolise seven beautiful maidens, and the nearby Suitor waterfall, positioned directly opposite, is said to be a lonely admirer, forever longing for them.
We couldn't also help admire the other cruise ships and yachts moored in the fjord as we passed by.
Back in Ålesund, we had just enough time to embark on a challenging but rewarding climb to the summit of Aksla, the town's mountain. It was a proper workout – 418 steps to be precise – but every single one was worth it. From the top, we were treated to an unbelievably beautiful panorama, encompassing scattered islands, the charming town centre, and the dramatic backdrop of the Sunnmøre Alps. It truly felt like we were standing on top of the world.
Dinner was another delightful buffet, where we indulged in a variety of culinary treats while remaining mindful of our ongoing fitness and diet goals. It felt good to enjoy the food without derailing our progress. All in all, it was a truly splendid day, packed with incredible sights and new experiences.
Day 4 - Trondheim and a Journey into the Trøndelag
Day 4 began with our arrival in Trondheim, the capital of Norway's Trøndelag region. The landscape transformed into a picturesque scene of rolling hills, scattered farmsteads, and quaint coastal settlements.As we approached the city, we enjoyed an on-deck talk about Munkholmen, or "Monk's Islet," a small island with a storied past. It has served as an execution ground, a monastery, a prison, a fortress, and a World War II defence station. Our entrance into port was also marked by a fun flag-waving party as one of MS Midnatsol's sister ships passed by us.
After a delicious breakfast, we made the most of our three hours in Trondheim by visiting Nidaros Cathedral. Often called "Norway's Notre Dame" due to its stunning Gothic architecture, it is considered the most sacred building in the country.
Having been in awe of the Nidaros Cathedral's grandeur, we wandered back, crossing the famous Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) with its iconic red arch. The view from the bridge was a postcard come to life, with the serene river reflecting the colorful, wooden warehouses of the old town—a charming contrast to the cathedral's imposing stone facade.
We strolled through this historic district, admiring the traditional architecture and feeling the weight of the city's past, before the streets began to change. Soon, we were in the contemporary heart of Trondheim, a bustling shopping district where modern facades and sleek designs replaced the timbered homes, creating a vibrant blend of the old and the new.
Following lunch back on board, we set sail northwest, passing the distinct ochre-coloured Kjeungskjær Lighthouse, various islets, and rocky reefs before heading towards the charming town of Rørvik. The remainder of the day was spent productively, with time in the gym, relaxing in the hot tubs, and attending informative talks about the next day's itinerary. James even entertained guests by playing the piano again
Day 5 - Circle crossings, Glacier gazing, Viking vitality & Tranquil trolls
Our alarm call on Day 5 was rather unusual; at 07:35, we were informed that we were on the cusp of entering the Arctic Circle. Despite the early hour and still feeling a bit sleepy, we quickly dressed and made our way to the deck. It was worth the effort; we had a perfect view as we passed the distinctive globe-shaped structure on Vikingen island that unmistakably marks this significant boundary.
Breakfast was a substantial affair, a necessary preparation for the long and exciting day ahead. Our itinerary included two pre-booked excursions and a variety of evening activities planned back on the boat.
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| View from the coach as we made our way to the glacier. |
Our first major outing was to the Svartisen Glacier, Norway’s second-largest glacier, surpassed only by the mighty Jostedal Glacier. It's fascinating to consider that despite being the lowest-lying glacier on the European continent before the last Ice Age retreat, Svartisen still boasts an impressive sixty tongues of ice extending from its main body. These icy tendrils reach into a stunning mountain landscape, home to several peaks that soar over 1,500 metres high.
Back on board the ship, we managed to grab a quick late lunch before heading to our first lecture. An educational programme runs throughout this cruise, a feature I particularly enjoy, and today's talk was all about fjords. We delved into their formation, what precisely defines them, and many other fascinating facts about Norway's unique geomorphology.
The evening brought a rather special invitation: to dine with Vikings in celebration of a chieftain’s upcoming trip to Europe. How could we possibly decline such an extraordinary opportunity? This wasn't a historical re-enactment on the boat, but rather an evening spent at a replica of a Viking chieftain’s house, built on its original site, where we enjoyed a meal with our Viking hosts. We were served a plate of incredibly tender lamb accompanied by simple yet utterly delicious vegetables, along with a glass of mead. The meal was preceded by traditional prayers and offerings to the gods, ensuring our host received their blessing for his forthcoming journey. It was a truly immersive and memorable experience.
Returning to the ship, the excitement continued. First, we were offered mulled wine served in a souvenir troll mug. The reason for the troll soon became clear; we were about to enter the two-kilometre long Trollfjord, or Trollfjorden, which dramatically cuts into the island of Austvågøya before flowing out into the Raftsundet strait.
As the name suggests, it is derived from 'troll', the classic figure from Norse mythology. Sailing into this narrow fjord isn't always possible due to challenging weather conditions like ice or fog, so we felt incredibly fortunate on this trip. What truly astonished me was how light it remained, even at midnight! We were also served some delicious and warming fish soup, which was absolutely perfect after all the evening's adventures. After such an exhilarating day, it was definitely time for bed.
Day 6 - A Day of Discovery in Tromsø
After a busy few days, a well-deserved lie-in was in order. We savoured a leisurely breakfast on board, particularly delightful given we had nothing scheduled until after lunch. This relaxed start allowed us to truly enjoy some of the ship's other offerings.
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| Slide from the lecture about Sami people |
I particular liked this music and artist that they played during the talk. He was Colombian-born and adopted and lived in a Sami village in Härjedalen, Sweden. He won Swedish Got Tallent in 2014 and Sweden's version of Strictly Come Dancing. He sings Joik, a traditional form of song in Sámi music. Each joik is meant to reflect or evoke a person, animal, or place and it is a song without words. Listen to "Daniel's Joik" below which is about his best friend who sadly took his own life. The song's success is credited with more men in the region talking about their mental health (young male suicide is a deeping problem in this part of the world - connected to the long dark periods of night along with the constraints of the inherited lifestyle.
After a delicious lunch, we docked in Tromsø. A short bus journey took us from the city island across to the other side, where the Fjellheisen Cable Car awaited.
Ascending to the viewpoint was exciting, especially knowing this was the finishing checkpoint for the inaugural celebrity series of Race Across the World. This marked our third visit to a checkpoint location from the series – quite a quirky travel achievement! The panoramic views were absolutely breathtaking, offering a magnificent overview of the city nestled amongst the fjords.
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| Notice the floating outdoor sauna! |
Our third port of call on this whistle-stop tour was the Full Steam Seafarers Museum, dedicated to the maritime and fisheries heritage of Northern Norway. While perhaps not entirely our cup of tea, we still had a quick wander around before eagerly heading to the local ice bar.
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| More views of Tromsø, including the world's smallest bar (although the external seating area makes this claim contentious to some!) |
Day 7 - Unveiling the Heart of Hurtigruten
Today proved to be a tranquil interlude in our Norwegian adventure. With no organised excursions, we embraced the chance to simply relax aboard the ship and explore the charming town where we docked. This quiet day offered a perfect opportunity to delve into the fascinating story of our cruise line, Hurtigruten.
It might surprise some, as it did me initially, to learn that Hurtigruten is fundamentally a ferry company. Its roots stretch back to 1893, diligently serving and connecting the rugged Norwegian coast. The name itself, "Hurtigruten," literally translates to "the fast route," a testament to its pivotal role. Prior to its establishment, coastal settlements in Norway were isolated, with no single, continuous voyage connecting them. People had to painstakingly switch between numerous smaller ships to travel any distance.
Enter Captain Richard With, a visionary who stepped forward with an ambitious plan to link these communities. Armed with nautical charts meticulously drawn by the experienced local sailor Anders Holte, Captain With meticulously prepared a route, schedule, and crew. His pioneering efforts ensured safe passage along the coast, not just by day, but crucially, by night too. Today, while Hurtigruten ships certainly cater to tourists on this magical coastal cruise, they retain their vital ferry function. They continue to drop off locals and essential supplies along the route, and it's quite common to see passengers boarding for a day or two as they travel between towns. It’s a wonderful blend of tourism and essential service, something I really admire about the company.
Our ship glided into Honningsvåg mid-morning, and we decided against the popular excursion to the North Cape. While the North Cape, with its iconic globe monument, marks the very top of continental Europe, we felt a greater pull to simply wander through the small town itself. Despite its size, Honningsvåg holds the distinction of being classified as a city under a previous Norwegian administrative system. One quirky claim to fame for this northern outpost is that it boasts the world’s most northerly roundabout! We ambled through the town's quaint streets and along the picturesque shoreline for a while, soaking in the local atmosphere, before returning to the ship for a leisurely lunch.
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| The seashore, the most northerly roundabout and a statue of the dog Bamse, who was a St. Bernard dog that became the heroic mascot of the Free Norwegian Forces during WWII and became a symbol of Norwegian freedom during the war. |
The afternoon was dedicated entirely to wellbeing. We made full use of the ship's gym, followed by a blissful session in the hot tub and sauna. After several days of constant exploration, dedicating time to unwind and rejuvenate felt absolutely wonderful. It was, without doubt, a rather perfect way to spend the time.
Day 8 - Turning Point: North to South Along the Norwegian Coast
Today marked a significant turning point on our Norwegian adventure, quite literally!
The other significant moment about this point in our journey is that we had reached the most northerly part of our journey and began our southward descent along the captivating coast. Our first stop this morning was the town of Kirkenes, a place that surprisingly meant we had travelled further east than both St. Petersburg and Istanbul. While there wasn't a huge amount to see in terms of conventional tourist attractions, its history is undeniably fascinating, perched right next to the Russian border.
Germany invaded Kirkenes in 1940, drawn by its rich iron ore deposits, transforming it into a strategic base near Murmansk. This unfortunate geographical advantage led Kirkenes to claim the grim title of the most-bombed town in Europe, second only to Malta, as the Soviets relentlessly fought to regain control. It was sobering to imagine the intense bombardments this quiet town endured.
Today, Kirkenes serves a different purpose for many of its Russian neighbours. It's a popular destination for them to pick up supplies that are difficult to source back home. I found it particularly intriguing that Champagne, due to France halting shipments to Russia following the war in Ukraine, and baby nappies, which are significantly cheaper here, are two of the most sought-after items. It offers a glimpse into the everyday impacts of global events.
Our next port of call was a quick stop in Vardø, where we had less than an hour to explore. Despite the limited time, we managed to visit the solemn Witches’ Monument, a memorial to those accused of witchcraft in the 17th century. It was a poignant reminder of a dark chapter in history. We also squeezed in a visit to the star-shaped Vardøhus Fortress, built in 1737. This impressive structure holds the distinction of being the northernmost fortification of any kind and remains a part of the military to this day. We just about managed to walk around both features before hurrying back to the ship, with only a few precious minutes to spare! It was a whirlwind, but certainly worth the rush to experience these unique historical sites.
Day 9 - A Northern Discovery in Hammerfest
Our Hurtigruten voyage brought us to Hammerfest today, a place I’d always imagined as relentlessly icy. To my delight, this northernmost city in the world greeted us with unexpectedly mild weather, making our exploration of this Arctic outpost all the more enjoyable. This city, perched on the edge of the Barents Sea, is a fascinating blend of history and resilience, having been rebuilt after significant destruction during World War II.
We began our wander through the town centre, which is remarkably compact and easy to navigate. The main square was abuzz with activity; locals went about their daily routines, while a smattering of fellow cruise passengers added to the lively atmosphere. Despite its remote location, Hammerfest felt surprisingly vibrant. Our goal was to reach the local viewpoint, and we soon found the path. The climb, though short, was steep, and as we ascended, the wind picked up, carrying with it the unmistakable scent of salt and the distant cries of gulls.
The effort was truly rewarded. From the viewpoint, a spectacular panorama of Hammerfest unfolded beneath us. The harbour buzzed with life, fishing boats bobbing alongside our majestic Hurtigruten ship. The colourful houses of the town looked like scattered Lego bricks against the stark, yet beautiful, northern landscape. Across the fjord, the islands of Sørøya and Seiland lay shrouded in a hazy blue, their forms softened by the distance. In every direction, the sky seemed to stretch into infinity, a humbling reminder of just how far north we had ventured. Hammerfest, incidentally, was also the first city in Northern Europe to establish an electric street lighting system in 1891, a testament to its pioneering spirit.
After soaking in the incredible view and capturing countless photos, we descended, heading towards the striking Hammerfest Church. Its angular, modern architecture stood out against the more traditional buildings. I found it particularly interesting that the top of the steeple is hollow; partly as an homage to the traditional fish drying racks prevalent in the area, but also, ingeniously, to allow the powerful winds to pass through without causing damage. Inside, the church was a sanctuary of light and peace. The beautiful stained-glass windows depicted scenes of Arctic life and history, casting vibrant colours across the simple wooden pews. It truly felt like a space designed to withstand both the harshness of the elements and the long, dark winter nights, offering comfort and light to its community.
Our final stop before getting back on board was a quick detour through the local shopping centre. It was a fascinating glimpse into everyday life in this remote community. People were grocery shopping, grabbing a coffee, and browsing for essentials. It was a testament to the fact that even in a place that feels like the edge of the world, life carries on in a very familiar way. As we walked back to the ship, the sun broke through the clouds, illuminating the town one last time. Our short visit to Hammerfest was a perfect blend of dramatic scenery, local culture, and a true sense of adventure.
The rest of the day was spent on board enjoying the spectacular scenery as we sailed past, relaxing in the hot tubs, a workout in the gym and more flag waving as another sister ship sailed by!
Day 10 - Harstad's History and Trollfjord's Magic
Overnight, we once again found ourselves moored in Tromsø. Although we didn't disembark, the sight of the illuminated cathedral and its nearby bridge against the dark sky was a beautiful welcome back to the city.
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| Not my photo, but almost what we could see from our cabin window (minus the snow!). |
When we did rise for the day, we discovered we were now entering Harstad, a town nestled on Hinnøya, Norway's largest island. Our day began with a pre-booked excursion, a bus tour designed to unveil the local area and its fascinating history. Harstad's story is deeply intertwined with herring fishing, its significant military presence, and more recently, the burgeoning offshore oil industry. The town itself has a distinctive character, blending historical charm with modern developments.
On a remarkably clear day, our journey led us north of the town to the Trondenes peninsula. Here, we visited the Trondenes Church, a magnificent 13th-century white medieval stone church, which holds the impressive distinction of being the northernmost of its kind in the world. Its austere beauty and historical significance were truly captivating. Afterwards, we stepped into the Trondenes Historical Centre. I was particularly fascinated by the array of artefacts discovered in the region, offering a tangible link to millennia of history, from the early Stone Age through the Viking Age, the Middle Ages, and right up to the present day. They even have a reconstructed farmstead from around 1200, complete with a granary, forge, and a traditional stave church. It genuinely felt like a journey back in time, allowing me to imagine life in medieval Norway.
Following our historical immersion, the bus took us on a truly breathtaking scenic drive across Hinnøya Island. The views were simply stunning: deep blue fjords carving their way through towering, steep mountains, interspersed with idyllic agricultural landscapes that seemed impossibly green - and we finally saw some reindeer!
Our destination was Gullesfjord, where we were due to catch our ferry. On board, we warmed ourselves with a hot drink and indulged in some freshly made waffles and lefse, a traditional Norwegian flatbread.
From the ferry, our tour continued by bus along Sigerfjord, eventually bringing us to Sortland, where we hung back from crossing the final bridge so that we could time our crossing with the passing of our ship, MS Mindnatsol, under us! Quite an experience!
In the afternoon, we once again had the pleasure of entering the legendary Trollfjord. This time, however, with the benefit of daylight, we could truly appreciate its dramatic splendour. The narrow entrance gives way to a magnificent, towering gorge, and it’s a place of incredible raw beauty. We were also treated to the sight of several majestic sea eagles soaring overhead. Despite their elusive nature, we did our best to capture their grace on camera, though it was certainly a challenge. The captain too had a challenge. At the end of the fjord the boat has to spin 180° in order to turn the ship around so it can then sail out of the fjord the way it entered it.
Later in the day, we docked in Svolvær. Dominating the skyline above the town is a colossal mountain, famously known as the Svolvær Goat. Its unique shape, with two distinct columns of rock, bears a remarkable resemblance to goat's horns.
The weather had turned and this was our first bought of proper rain since joining the ship - we have been very lucky! As we wondered around town we came across some interesting sculptures including one big shiny, silver eye called "The Eye of the North". The statue in the harbour is feskarkjærringa (the fisherman’s wife) who greets the fishermen who are out fishing. At the same time, her hand is sheltered from the weather as she scouts out to sea, worrying about whether she will get her husband home safe and sound this evening as well.
Day 11 - Back Across the Arctic Circle and Legendary Landscapes
Today marked a significant moment on our journey as we re-crossed the Arctic Circle border. To commemorate this special occasion, passengers were invited to partake in a unique tradition: a teaspoon of cod liver oil. This rather unpalatable custom, I discovered, harks back to the days of long sea voyages, where a boost of Vitamin D was essential. Thankfully, a welcome glass of prosecco was on hand to swiftly banish that lingering fishy taste. It was quite a memorable way to mark our passage.
Our next aim was to marvel at the breathtaking Seven Sisters mountain range, with their majestic peaks soaring up to 1,100 metres. The local folklore tells a fascinating tale of seven beautiful troll princesses who, fleeing an unwanted suitor, were caught by the rising sun and transformed into these very mountains we hoped to admire. Unfortunately, a persistent blanket of fog and low cloud conspired against us, completely obscuring this legendary sight. It was a real shame, as I had been looking forward to seeing them.
However, our luck turned when we were able to glimpse the distinctive Torghatten Mountain, easily recognisable by the large, characteristic hole right through its middle. Another captivating legend surrounds this natural wonder: the troll Hestmannen, in hot pursuit of the lovely Lekamøya, fired an arrow to strike her down. In a heroic act, the troll-king of Sømna hurled his hat into the arrow's path, saving Lekamøya and, in doing so, transforming his hat into the mountain with the hole we see today. The scientific explanation, perhaps less dramatic but equally intriguing, suggests the hole was formed by sub-glacial processes when the entire area was covered by a formidable 100 metres of ice. It’s always fascinating to compare the myths with the geological reality.
After those enchanting sights, the rest of the day was largely spent enjoying the comfort of the boat. We did manage a brief hop off for a quick exploration of Brønnøysund - officially the middle of Norway (and they have a marker to prove it!). To be honest, it didn't offer a great deal in terms of attractions, but it was lovely to stretch our legs and discover a truly charming café where we indulged in some excellent cake and coffee. It's often the simple pleasures that make a day on a cruise so enjoyable.
As evening approached, a sense of bittersweet anticipation filled the air. We were treated to a special farewell dinner, a poignant occasion as many passengers would be disembarking tomorrow. We made an effort to look smart, donning our jackets, and it felt right to do so. The captain and her crew delivered a heartfelt farewell toast, a lovely gesture that made us feel truly appreciated and marked a memorable end to this leg of our incredible Norwegian adventure.
Day 12 - A Coastal Drive to Remember
What a difference a night makes! After a slightly turbulent evening on the waves, we awoke feeling remarkably refreshed, ready to embrace our twelfth day back in Trondheim. The morning sky, however, greeted us with a rather familiar Norwegian dampness – grey and wet. Still, that didn't deter us from a brisk early morning stroll around the industrial harbour after breakfast. It was a perfect way to stretch our legs and take in the unique atmosphere of the working port. It wasn't really worth a photograph though!
Our morning was largely unstructured, save for a fascinating lecture on navigation delivered by the ship's second officer. While some of the more technical aspects went a little over my head, I certainly came away with a much clearer understanding of maritime direction. I can now confidently tell my port from my starboard, which feels like a small but significant victory!
The real adventure of the day began in the late afternoon with our final shore excursion: a drive along the iconic Atlantic Coastal Road. But first, our coach made a captivating stop at Kvernes Stave Church. This isn't just any stave church; it holds the distinction of being Norway's only one built after the Middle Ages, specifically between 1631 and 1633. Stepping inside, we were transported back in time, admiring the intricate choir screen with its crucifix and royal monogram, the ornate baroque pulpit, and the beautifully painted acanthus decorations. The altarpiece itself dates all the way back to 1475. Interestingly, right next door stands a more modern church, built in 1893, a testament to the stave church's age and the growing congregation that eventually outgrew its historic walls.
Then, the moment we'd been anticipating: the Atlantic Coastal Road. This engineering marvel has earned its reputation as one of the world's most spectacular road journeys, and it's easy to see why. The scenery is simply breathtaking as the road effortlessly leaps from island to island.
It cunningly connects Averøy with the mainland, a series of small islands and islets linked by a total of eight bridges spanning an incredible 8,274 metres. Opened in 1989, it's a testament to human ingenuity in harmony with nature. The most famous stretch is undoubtedly the iconic Storseisund Bridge, affectionately known as the "Bridge to Nowhere." From certain angles, it creates an astonishing illusion, appearing to simply halt in mid-air. This very bridge also gained international fame with its dramatic appearance in the James Bond film, No Time to Die.
It truly felt like driving through a movie set, with every turn revealing another postcard-perfect vista. What an unforgettable way to conclude the first part of our Norwegian adventure!
Day 13 - Our Return to Bergen and a Fond Farewell
Today marked the bittersweet end of our incredible voyage on the MS Midnatsol. Saying goodbye to the ship and her wonderful crew was tough; we had an absolutely fantastic time and forged some lovely new friendships along the way. While all good things must come to an end, the memories we made will last a lifetime.
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| Photo taken with MS Midnatsol at Svolvær a few days before - couldn't get one at Bergen. |
After one final sumptuous buffet breakfast and lunch, it was time to pack up our glorious suite. I even managed to squeeze in one last workout in the gym before we disembarked. Our next destination was incredibly close – a mere twenty-minute journey!
We spent the afternoon exploring a different part of Bergen, basking in the glorious sunshine. It was such a delight to see the city come alive in the bright weather, especially since our last visit was marred by heavy rain.
Bergen is nestled amongst seven mountains, and as we climbed one of the hills that jut out from the harbour, we discovered many cute old wooden buildings, each with its own story. We also took the funicular up to the viewpoint to, well, admire the view! On top of the hill there was a lovely forest walk to a lake that we enjoyed and when we returned to our starting point at sunset, we looked down on Bergen to see that MS Midnatsol had already left on its next adventure.
We rounded off the day with a delicious meal in one of the town's many splendid restaurants, reflecting on the wonderful two weeks we had just experienced.
Day 15 - A Fjords and City Adventure to Stavanger
Today marked a significant road trip on our Norwegian adventure, a long but incredibly rewarding car journey from Bergen to Stavanger. Our mission was to traverse the breathtaking scenic route, promising more magnificent fjords and spectacular scenery along the way. For the first time, we picked up a hire car that was fully electric, a novel experience for us both. As we headed out of Bergen, the excitement for the open road and the stunning landscapes ahead was palpable.
The drive itself was a substantial seven hours, but we embraced the journey by breaking it up frequently. Every turn seemed to reveal another captivating sight, from cascading waterfalls that demanded a stop and a photograph, to serene lakeside towns perfect for a leisurely lunch.
The charming town of Voss, nestled by a beautiful lake, provided just such an idyllic setting for our midday meal, a chance to refuel ourselves as well as the car. Speaking of which, charging the electric car proved surprisingly simple; Norway's infrastructure for electric vehicles is truly impressive. It seemed we were never far from a charging station, and the seamless interoperability between networks made paying for electricity a hassle-free affair. It’s clear Norway is a pioneer in sustainable travel, something we greatly appreciated.
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| A bridge leading straight into a tunnel; a roundabout in a tunnel; beautiful lakeside villages and some oil rigs being serviced. |
Along the way, it was inevitable that we would see some stunning scenery and views. The waterfalls at Langfoss were a great backdrop as we stretched our legs and we took a stroll up a hill to a new campervan site that had a recreated classic Norwegian stave church while the car recharged at Odda.
Arriving in Stavanger, neither of us truly knew what to expect from this coastal city. After checking into our hotel, which boasted yet another spectacular room with a wonderful view, and parking the car, we ventured into the historic part of the city for an evening stroll and to find a bite to eat. We were immediately captivated by Stavanger's inherent charm.
The city has done a remarkable job of modernising its ancient quarter, injecting a fresh and vibrant energy while meticulously preserving its historic character. The streets and harbour were lined with an array of colourful wooden buildings, a truly striking sight, which now house an inviting collection of restaurants, cafes, and shops. This infusion of life gave the entire quarter a wonderfully lively feel, even though it was late on a Monday night and there were not many people around. Stavanger truly impressed us with its blend of old-world beauty and contemporary vitality. More photos of the town tomorrow when the light was better. In the meantime, take a look at his HUGE room we've booked!
Day 16 - Staying Steady in Stavanger
After two weeks of exploring Norway's breathtaking landscapes, we decided to embrace a slower pace on Day 16 and dedicate our time to the charming city of Stavanger. It might seem counter-intuitive to take it easy on holiday, but sometimes a moment of calm is exactly what's needed to recharge and truly appreciate your surroundings.
We indulged in a little self-care, treating ourselves to haircuts, sorting out our laundry, hitting the gym, and enjoying a refreshing swim in the pool followed by a blissful soak in the hot tub. These small acts of normalcy felt surprisingly luxurious after so much adventure.
Afterwards, we wandered the vibrant wharf area which was a hub of activity. Fishing boats, modern yachts and a giant cruise ship share the same waters, reflecting Stavanger's enduring connection to the sea, a heritage solidified by its past as a major herring canning centre and now as Norway's oil capital. The imposing Valberg Tower, a former watchtower, provided panoramic views of the city and fjord. We were particularly liked the striking 'Broken Mast' monument, an artistic tribute to the city's maritime past and a poignant reminder of the power of the sea.
Later, we meandered through the city's most captivating areas. Gamle Stavanger, the old town, was a particular highlight. It's renowned for being Europe's best-preserved wooden house settlement, with its labyrinthine cobbled streets and 173 immaculately maintained white wooden houses dating back to the 18th century. Wandering through felt like stepping back in time.
On the other side of the harbour, the colourful old district presented a vibrant contrast, buzzing with independent cafes, tempting restaurants, and eclectic shops. The atmosphere was infectious, and we loved soaking up the local life. As the day drew to a close, we couldn't resist capturing the moment with a few sunset selfies down by the waterfront, a perfect end to a perfectly relaxed day.
Day 17 - A Coastal Gem and Lunar Landscapes
Another day, another captivating Norwegian vista! Day 17 saw us packing up once more, eager to see what new wonders awaited us on the road to Mandal. However, we did make one mistake. Our intention was as we left Stavanger to take in the magnificent and famous Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) that isn't too far from the city.
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| Image grabbed from the internet since we didn't make it - this time! |
However, we forgot to check exactly where this landmark is! Prior research had told us is was only about a 40 min drive away from Stavanger. What deeper research would have told us, is that 40 minutes gets you to the carpark where you can start the base camp and car park, from where you can start the two hour hike there. So four hours of hiking - something we hadn't budgeted for in our schedule! Oh well, there's always next time.
Our first discovery as we hit the road, was the utterly charming coastal town of Sogndalstrand. Stepping onto its single main street, lined with an exquisite collection of white wooden houses dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, felt like stumbling upon a secret. The sheltered harbour, bathed in glorious sunshine, truly made it feel as though time had gracefully stood still in this picturesque corner of Norway. It was a moment of serene beauty, a perfect pause before our next adventure.
Our journey then led us to the incredibly narrow fjord of Jøssingfjord. This dramatic natural wonder is a key part of the Magma Geopark, a designation that intrigued me greatly. The reason for its inclusion? Its fascinating anorthosite rock formations, which are actually more commonly found on the moon than here on Earth! Driving down the winding, hairpin road into the fjord was a breathtaking experience, revealing a landscape of sheer cliffs that made us feel impossibly small in comparison. It was a humbling reminder of nature's raw power.
Standing beneath the immense Helleren rock shelter, a true geological marvel, and gazing at the two tiny, historic houses nestled safely beneath its overhang, was a truly surreal moment. The way these dwellings have endured for centuries, protected by this colossal natural roof, perfectly encapsulates the ancient and powerful connection between humanity and nature. It was a profound reflection on resilience and harmony.
Finally, we arrived in Mandal, a delightful harbourside community dominated by a bustling marina situated alongside the wide waterway that carves through the town. After settling into our hotel, eager to make the most of the evening light, we made a quick ascent to a local viewpoint. The reward was an unparalleled panorama, and of course, more glorious sunset photographs to add to our ever-growing collection of Norwegian memories.
Day 18 - Coastal Charm and Friends in Southern Norway
Our morning began with a delightful stroll to one of Mandal's picturesque headlands, where we stumbled upon a series of truly stunning sandy beaches. Each one was a postcard-perfect scene, boasting dramatic rock formations, expanses of golden sand, and crystal-clear waters.
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| James of course had to go for a dip! |
From the tranquil shores of Mandal, our journey continued to Kristiansand, a vibrant city where we paused to stretch our legs and explore. We discovered a rather striking church in the town centre, its architecture a fascinating blend of old and new. We particularly liked a bridge that was adorned with beautiful flowers - not that remarkable on the face of it but the effect walking to the bridge was stunning - sadly it was hard to grab a photo that did it justice.
Our day culminated in Larvik, our destination for the evening, where we had the immense pleasure of meeting our dear friend Elin.
We originally crossed paths with Elin in Thailand (a memory that takes us back to Day 130 of our adventures) and had previously visited her in Norway last year to celebrate her birthday. The evening was everything we could have wished for: an incredible meal, flowing drinks, abundant laughter, and, most importantly, the most fabulous company. We also went to a very small bar until the early hours where we drank and shared stories with some interesting local characters who made us feel most welcome. These moments of connection with friends and people truly are the most cherished parts of our travels.
Day 19 - Oslo: A Familiar Embrace
Our Norwegian adventure reached its crescendo today as we journeyed to Oslo, Norway's vibrant capital city. Having visited last year, there's a comforting familiarity to its streets, and I'm particularly looking forward to immersing ourselves once more in its big-city offerings – a welcome change after the charming, yet undeniably quiet, small settlements we've explored.
Our route from Larvik to Oslo included a brief interlude in Sandefjord. This sweet coastal town, while picturesque, didn't quite capture our imagination in the same way some of our other stops have. However, even in passing, it offered up another delightful water fountain – a surprisingly consistent and pleasing theme of this trip!
Arriving in Oslo felt like greeting an old friend. The city's energy immediately felt familiar and comforting. Our afternoon was spent efficiently, dropping off the hire car and settling into our hotel. Now, with the logistics handled, the real exploration can begin. We were keen to revisit some of our favourite spots and discover new corners of this fascinating capital.
Day 20 - Our Last Full Day in Oslo
Our final full day in Norway began with a wonderfully lazy lie-in, a real luxury after weeks of exploring. We also took advantage of the hotel's gym which was located in its basement down endless corridors. Nevertheless, we were rewarded by a well equipped gym that we had all to ourselves! We then indulged in a sumptuous breakfast in the hotel’s grand breakfast hall, savouring every last bite. Feeling refreshed, we ventured out to explore a different side of Oslo.
Our first stop was the area surrounding the imposing, brutalist-looking town hall. This architectural style certainly makes a statement! From there, we strolled down to the Nobel Peace Prize Museum, which proved to be a truly interesting and informative attraction.
After a delightful lunch on the quayside, watching the boats bobbing in the harbour, we hopped on a ferry across to Bygdøy. This picturesque headland, just across from the centre of Oslo, is famed for its embassies and impressive collection of museums. 
On our last visit, we explored the Norsk Farmasihistorisk Museum, a captivating collection of Norwegian buildings that collectively tell the country’s rich history. We had been particularly excited to experience the new Viking museum, which was under construction during our previous trip. To our slight disappointment, it was still being built! However, this minor setback allowed us to take a leisurely stroll around the island, enjoying the tranquil forest trails and charming beaches before catching the ferry back. Sometimes the unexpected detours prove to be just as enjoyable.
In the evening, we had the pleasure of catching up with Elin, who was in town for work. We enjoyed a truly lovely dinner at Theatercaféen, a beautiful restaurant renowned for attracting famous actors and personalities when they're in Oslo.
We know we shall return to Norway again since it has become a very special place to us and we adore its people and culture. But for now, to everyone we met and for everything we experienced - tusen takk!
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