A Morning Amongst the Ancient Oaks
Our day began in the dappled sunlight of Savernake Forest. Located near Marlborough, this ancient woodland is a place of quiet majesty, home to some of the oldest trees in the country. We found a secluded spot to set out a light picnic lunch, complete with bubbles and cake to toast the occasion. The forest felt like a secret world, providing a peaceful contrast to the excitement of the afternoon ahead. A gentle woodland walk allowed us to stretch our legs and admire the twisted limbs of the Big Belly Oak, which is estimated to be over 1,000 years old.
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Arriving at the Real Downton Abbey
As we approached Highclere Castle, the anticipation was mounting. Walking onto the long, sweeping driveway, we were greeted by a vista that felt incredibly intimate. The silhouette of the castle against the skyline is world famous as the opening image of Downton Abbey, and seeing it in person felt like stepping directly into the television screen.
Highclere is a masterpiece of the Jacobethan style, designed in 1842 by Sir Charles Barry - the same architect responsible for the Houses of Parliament. The building is adorned with pinnacles and towers, crafted from warm Bath stone that glows even on an overcast day. It is a structure that commands respect while maintaining a certain elegance that belies its massive scale.
Behind the Scenes with the Head of Household
While Spencer had visited before and was well acquainted with the cosy grandeur of the house, the experience took an unexpected turn for the better shortly after we entered. In the library, a room defined by its thousands of leather bound volumes and a magnificent fireplace, we struck up a conversation with Jason, the Head of Household. Jason holds a unique place in the estate's history as the first man to officially hold this specific title.
What began as a brief chat turned into an extraordinary private tour. Jason is a fountain of knowledge, balancing historical gravity with the lighthearted reality of managing a modern film set. He shared how he often has to assist during filming, meticulously ensuring that every clock in a shot displays the correct time for the scene or helping to reposition heavy antique furniture to accommodate camera tracks.
Tales of Royalty and Hollywood
As we moved through the state rooms, Jason regaled us with stories of the Carnarvon family, who have owned Highclere since 1679. The current Earl and Countess represent a lineage that has played host to everyone from royalty to Hollywood legends. We were particularly intrigued by the tales of their predecessors who moved in elite circles, counting various film stars as personal friends.
In the dining room, we paused to admire the equestrian portrait of King Charles I by Anthony van Dyck. The painting is a masterpiece, yet its history is surprisingly humble. Jason told us the incredible story of how the painting was once lost to history, allegedly used to prop open a barn door on the estate before its true value was rediscovered and it was returned to its rightful place of honour.
The Illusion of Grandeur and the Reality of Home
One of the most surprising revelations occurred in the grand central atrium. While the intricate stone carvings look like solid masonry, Jason pointed out that much of the decorative work is actually render and clever mouldings. It is a testament to the craftsmanship of the era that such a convincing illusion could be maintained for centuries.
Because we were on a private tour, we were granted access to bedrooms where other visitors are usually restricted to the doorways. Up close, the embroidered fabrics and flocked wallpapers are breathtaking, though Jason noted with a smile that even a castle requires a bit of TLC. Seeing the slight wear on the decor made the house feel less like a museum and more like a genuine family home, albeit an exceptionally grand one.
From Hampshire to the Valley of the Kings
Before departing, we descended into the basement to explore the Egyptian Exhibition. The connection between Highclere and ancient history is profound; the 5th Earl of Carnarvon was the patron who funded Howard Carter’s search for the tomb of Tutankhamun. In 1922, they stood together as the first people to enter the tomb in three millennia. The exhibition serves as a fascinating reminder of the family’s contribution to global archaeology.
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We left Highclere Castle feeling incredibly fortunate. What started as a birthday visit to a famous filming location transformed into a deep dive into British history, guided by the very person who keeps the heart of the house beating. It was a day of discovery that we will both treasure for years to come - after we've binged watched all six series of Downton Abbey of course.
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