However, fortune favoured our schedule. We were delighted to discover that our visit coincided with Snow Glow, Verbier’s second annual gay ski weekend. Given the success of the inaugural event, we did not hesitate to secure tickets and join the festivities.
A Different Kind of Celebration
Having attended Arosa Gay Ski Week earlier this year - an event with over a decade of history and a vast international following - we arrived with seasoned expectations. While Arosa is grand and bustling, Verbier is currently nurturing a more boutique experience. This smaller, more intimate scale is perfectly suited to the village's sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere. Verbier sits on a sun-drenched plateau at $1,500$ metres, overlooking the Massif du Grand Combin, and this natural amphitheatre provided a stunning backdrop for a weekend of inclusivity.
Drag Queens and Downhill Slopes
The event ran from Thursday afternoon through to Saturday, offering a curated blend of mountain activities and village nightlife. The schedule was anchored by a cohort of fabulous international drag queens who hosted various events with tireless energy. The itinerary included:
Village Socials: Engaging sessions of bingo and karaoke that brought a vibrant splash of colour to the local bars.
On-Piste Festivities: Afternoon gatherings at mountain restaurants where the music and atmosphere rivalled the traditional après-ski scene.
Skill Building: A highlight for many was the opportunity to spend time with professional ski instructors, ensuring everyone felt confident navigating the 400 kilometres of runs within the 4 Vallées network.
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| Not James or Spencer but Sion of Globetrotter Guys fame |
Looking Toward the Future
Reflecting on the weekend, there is a profound sense of pride in seeing Verbier embrace such an initiative. The local community and businesses have shown genuine support for Snow Glow, recognizing the importance of fostering a welcoming environment for all travellers.
The dates for next year have already been confirmed (April 2027) and notably, the event has been moved forward in the calendar. By shifting away from the very end of the season, the organizers are positioning the weekend for significant growth, ensuring better snow conditions and a busier village atmosphere.
Although the ongoing renovations mean we will be unable to stay in the family chalet during next year's event, we are already looking at alternative accommodation. Supporting the growth of the LGBTQ+ scene in the Valais region is a priority for us, and we look forward to seeing how this intimate festival evolves in the seasons to come.
A Fond Farewell and Sustainable Transitions
While the vibrancy of the Snow Glow festival occupied our evenings, our daylight hours were dedicated to a more nostalgic task. We were in town to finalise the clearing of the family chalet, preparing the structure for its significant architectural transformation. Standing amongst the half-packed rooms, one could almost feel the decades of history embedded in the timber walls.
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| Damian and James on the last day with their (soon to be old) chalet |
Verbier’s traditional chalets are renowned for their Swiss Alpine style, typically featuring heavy stone bases and sun-scorched wooden upper floors. Saying goodbye to a space that has held so many family memories was a bittersweet experience, yet the necessity of the renovation is undeniable as we look toward the future of the estate.
Community Recycling on the Front Lawn
In an effort to manage the clearance responsibly, we opted for a community-led approach rather than traditional disposal. We moved a substantial collection of redundant furniture and household items onto the front lawn, inviting locals and passers-by to take whatever they found useful.
Our primary goal was to ensure these items found new homes rather than contributing to a landfill. The response from the village was both surprising and heart-warming:
High Engagement: Neighbours and residents spent hours browsing the selection.
Sustainability in Action: We estimate that over 70% of the items we placed outside were successfully rehomed.
Resourcefulness: Seeing a vintage chair or a sturdy oak table loaded into a local’s van provided a sense of closure that a skip never could.
Cherished Company and Alpine Vistas
When we weren't shifting heavy wardrobes or attending festival events, we found moments of stillness to appreciate the breathtaking scenery of the Bagnes Valley. The late spring air in the Alps has a particular clarity, with the snow-capped peaks of the Mont Fort massif providing a constant, grounding presence.
These moments were made even more special by the company of Mauritzio and Alejandra. This wonderful couple has helped the family manage and care for the chalet for many years, becoming an integral part of our Verbier experience. Sharing a final coffee with them in the old kitchen allowed us to reflect on the past while discussing the ambitious plans for the new build.
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| A lovely "Farewell to the Chalet" meal with Mauritzio, Alejandra & friends. |
The transition is certainly emotional. We are closing a chapter on a building that has served the family faithfully, yet there is an undeniable excitement in the air. As the old structure makes way, we look forward to watching a more modern and beautiful residence rise in its place, ready to host the next generation of memories.
The Road to the Côte-d'Or: A Tale of Two Dijons
The journey from Bristol to Verbier is a familiar pilgrimage for us. We opted to drive, a decision motivated by the practical need to transport our ski equipment and the desire to bring back a few salvaged treasures from the chalet. The route is approximately 1,000 kilometres and takes roughly 15 hours of driving time. While we have tackled the entire distance in a single, gruelling stint in the past, we have recently embraced the wisdom of a halfway overnight stop.
Our attempt to do this last year resulted in a rather disheartening experience in Dijon. Arriving without a booking, we found ourselves trapped in a sprawling labyrinth of concrete roundabouts and nondescript corporate blocks on the outskirts of the city. With no hotel vacancies and a view of nothing but grey infrastructure, our impression of this historic capital was, understandably, quite poor. However, knowing that Dijon was once the seat of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, we knew there had to be more to the city than the industrial periphery. We vowed to return with a better plan.
A Five-Star Redemption
This year, we approached our stopover with the level of research James prefers. We traded the utilitarian outskirts for the refined elegance of a five-star hotel situated directly in the historic centre. The shift in perspective was instantaneous.
Dijon is a city that demands to be explored on foot. Its heart is a well-preserved tapestry of architectural history, ranging from the medieval period to the Renaissance. We spent our evening and the following morning wandering through the sun-drenched streets, discovering a side of the city that felt worlds away from our previous visit.
Architectural Grandeur: The city is famous for its toits bourguignons - glazed roof tiles arranged in bold, multicoloured geometric patterns that shimmer in the spring sunshine.
Ecclesiastical Wonders: We encountered several stunning churches and cathedrals, including the Gothic masterpiece of Dijon Cathedral, which dates back to the 13th century.
Public Spaces: The city is punctuated by enchanting squares and beautifully manicured gardens, such as the Jardin de l'Arquebuse, which provided a tranquil escape before the final leg of our drive.
Lessons in Travel
This experience served as a poignant reminder of how much a traveller's perspective is shaped by their immediate surroundings. By simply moving a few kilometres into the city centre, the "concrete network" of our memory was replaced by a sophisticated cultural hub.
Walking through the ancient squares, we felt a sense of calm that is often missing from long-distance road trips. There is a certain magic in seeing a city redeem itself. We left Dijon not just well-rested, but genuinely enamoured with its French charm, ready to tackle the climb into the Swiss Alps with a renewed sense of adventure.
For the return leg of our journey, we chose to revisit Troyes, a city that had previously enchanted us during a stopover on Boxing Day. Our last encounter with this historic gem was framed by the glittering lights and festive atmosphere of the mid-winter season. Returning in the height of spring offered a fascinating contrast; the crisp, cold air of December had been replaced by a gentle warmth and the brilliant clarity of the May sunshine.
Troyes is the historic capital of the Champagne region, and its town centre is famously shaped like a champagne cork. This quirk of geography is matched by an architectural heritage that is truly staggering in its preservation.
A Medieval Masterpiece in Bloom
As we wandered the winding streets once more, we were struck by the sheer volume of timber-framed buildings that have survived since the 16th century. Last year, these narrow lanes were adorned with elaborate Christmas decorations; this time, the festive garlands had made way for vibrant floral displays that cascaded from window boxes and lined the cobblestone pathways.
The city felt remarkably different under the spring sky:
Architectural Marvels: The "half-timbered" houses, known locally as maisons à pans de bois, appeared even more striking in the natural light, their colourful facades and leaning upper storeys creating a scene straight from a fairytale.
The Sound of Water: A highlight of the springtime transition was the reactivation of the city's many fountains. Their rhythmic splashing added a layer of tranquillity to the central squares that we hadn't experienced during the frozen winter months.
The Heart of the City: The historic centre, which is remarkably intact, felt less like a tourist destination and more like a living, breathing piece of history.
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A Restorative Conclusion
There is a particular kind of magic in revisiting a place and finding it just as captivating in a different season. Troyes provided the perfect pace for the penultimate day of our trip. The relaxed, tranquil air of the city allowed us to decompress after the physical exertion of the furniture move in Verbier and the long hours spent on the French motorways.
Stepping into the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, we were reminded that Troyes is often called the 'City of Stained Glass' due to its incredible 9,000 square metres of ancient windows. The afternoon sun streaming through these kaleidoscopic panes was a silent, beautiful moment of reflection for us both.
By the time we returned to the car for the final stretch of our journey, we felt thoroughly restored. The combination of historical discovery and the slow pace of provincial French life was the ideal antidote to a busy business trip. We arrived home not just with a car full of chalet treasures, but with a sense of peace that only a well-planned road trip can provide.gf
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