What began as a budget-conscious quest for concert tickets quickly evolved into an opulent week-long expedition through southern France and Catalonia. It all started when we discovered that Ludovico Einaudi, one of James' absolute favourite composers and pianists, was touring. Tickets in the UK were almost entirely sold out, with the remaining few listed at astronomical prices well over £400. Fortunately, James' brother Damian saved the day by sourcing tickets that were 80% cheaper. The only minor detail was that the concert was being held in Carcassonne, a medieval fortress town in southern France. Comparing €65 to £400 made the decision an absolute certainty, even if the subsequent logistics transformed our modest musical outing into a full luxury holiday.
Discovering La Ville Rose
Our cultural adventure commenced with a flight into Toulouse, as there were no direct flights available from Bristol to Carcassonne. Having never visited Toulouse before, we were unsure what to expect. What we discovered was a utterly delightful city, historically enriched by the maritime trade of pastel dye and famously known as La Ville Rose (The Pink City) due to the distinctive pinkish terracotta bricks used to construct its grand architecture.
Our luxury hotel was positioned right in the historic centre, placing us perfectly for exploring the labyrinth of medieval streets. Arriving in the early evening, we immediately set out in search of supper. Our wanderings brought us to the magnificent Place du Capitole, a vast public square dominated by the grand facade of the Capitole, which houses the city hall and the historic Capitole Theatre. We enjoyed a splendid meal looking out onto the bustling square, where the evening heat was wonderfully dissipated by cooling misters built into the outdoor parasols.
The following morning, after an exceptional breakfast that perfectly prepared us for a morning of exploration, we stepped out to discover more of the city's secrets. Although the interior of the City Hall was unfortunately closed to visitors that day, we enjoyed a self-guided walking tour along the banks of the Garonne River. We crossed historic bridges, wandered through the lush Royal Gardens and paused to admire the classical statues and ornate fountains that define this elegant French city.
The Magic of Carcassonne
As we checked out of our hotel and drove towards our next destination, we received a perfectly timed phone call from Damian, who had just landed at Carcassonne airport with his girlfriend Rachel. We managed to collect them just as we approached the town, allowing us all to arrive at our spectacular hotel together.
The accommodation was nothing short of legendary. Situated in the absolute heart of the old medieval Citadel, the property sat right next to the historic cathedral and backed directly onto the ancient amphitheatre where the concert was to take place.
A Historic Guest List
Our magnificent hotel has a long tradition of hosting the global elite. Over the decades, its guest book has been signed by distinguished figures including:
- Sir Winston Churchill
- Princess Grace of Monaco (Grace Kelly)
- Walt Disney
- Johnny Depp
The surrounding area was utterly enchanting. The winding, narrow corridors and wonky stone walls enclosed within the massive dual layer ramparts strongly resembled the fantastical architecture of the Goblin City from the classic film Labyrinth. After a relaxing afternoon spent lounging by the swimming pool, which sits directly in the shadow of the amphitheatre walls, we found a charming local restaurant to enjoy a celebratory dinner together.
The next morning, James and I woke up early to walk the deserted streets of the Citadel before breakfast. Capturing photographs before the daily influx of tourists arrived was a priority, and the early morning sun reflecting off the ancient limestone walls lent a vibrant, golden energy to the fortress.
Following a simple breakfast, the four of us reconvened to explore the Château Comtal and walk the entirety of the 1.3km ramparts. From these elevated stone battlements, we enjoyed spectacular views looking inward across the medieval rooftops and outward towards the hazy peaks of the Pyrenees.
An Evening of Sound and Light
The true highlight of our journey arrived that evening. Our walk along the ramparts had already heightened our anticipation for the concert, though the prelude to the show proved somewhat stressful. We ventured out for dinner a little later than planned and encountered remarkably slow restaurant service. We sat nervously watching the clock tick closer to showtime, but our excellent food fortunately arrived just in time for us to eat quickly and make a swift exit.
The concert itself was an extraordinary, deeply emotional experience that meant the world to James. The two-hour performance was so moving that it even brought a few tears to his eyes. Einaudi masterfully blended familiar masterpieces with newer compositions. Some pieces felt like evolving waves of ambient sound that reverberated around the ancient stone amphitheatre, perfectly synchronized with the atmospheric stage lighting. Hearing these favourite piano compositions brought to life by a full live orchestra in a Roman-style setting was completely unforgettable.
The magic continued into the next morning when we discovered that the maestro himself was staying at our hotel, casually eating breakfast just two tables away from us. Before reluctantly departing Carcassonne later that day, Rachel and I indulged in a wonderful massage at the hotel spa, wrapping up an enchanting French chapter of our holiday.
Journey into Catalonia
The next phase of our itinerary took us south towards the Catalonian coast, with Sitges as our final destination. We planned two overnight stops along the way to break up the driving. On our way to the coastal town of Roses, we paused for a short break in Narbonne to admire its massive, unfinished Gothic cathedral, followed by a stop in the French seaside commune of Banyuls-sur-Mer. Sitting by the waterfront with a cold glass of local wine was the perfect way to bid farewell to France before crossing the border into Spain.
Our accommodation in Roses, the Hotel Vistabella, was perched directly on the rugged coastline. It offered magnificent sea views and featured one of the most surreal hotel rooms we have ever encountered. Decorated as a deliberate homage to the surrealist art movement, the room was a masterpiece of eccentric design.After an exquisite dinner watching the sun dip below the horizon of the bay, the hotel staff kindly treated us to a private tour of their legendary wine cellar.
In the Footsteps of Dalí
The following morning was dedicated to exploring the picturesque fishing village of Cadaqués. Historically isolated from the rest of Spain by the rugged Pení mountains, this pristine enclave retained its traditional character and became a legendary haven for avant-garde artists including Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Marcel Duchamp. We spent hours wandering past the iconic whitewashed houses and down narrow cobblestone streets, eventually pausing for a light lunch on the tranquil quayside.
The hot, dry conditions and fierce seasonal winds had triggered a series of wild fires in the region. Ominous plumes of dark smoke grew steadily larger on the horizon as we drove, and the air filled with the constant drone of firefighting planes and helicopters dropping massive payloads of water. Seeing such devastation unfolding in real life rather than on a television screen was sobering, but the local fire crews worked heroically to steer the flames away from populated areas. Tragically, in the weeks following our trip, these wildfires continued and spread. The whole region was affected including parts of France. At the time of writing this, some three weeks later, they have yet to bring them under control.
Our second overnight stop was located in the upscale coastal resort of S'Agaró, where we stayed at the historic Hostal de la Gavina. This legendary hotel has hosted a glittering array of Hollywood icons including Sean Connery, Jack Nicholson, Robert De Niro and Peter Sellers. It was also the site of a legendary bar-room altercation between Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor. Salvador Dalí himself was a regular visitor, famously known for grooming his trademark moustache at the hotel bar alongside literary greats like Octavio Paz.
The next morning, we walked along the impeccably maintained coastal path, taking in the dramatic cliffside villas and pristine Mediterranean vistas.
The Vibrant Spirit of Sitges and Barcelona
Our final driving leg brought us to the popular beachside town of Sitges. James had selected a beautiful hotel right on the promenade, and after navigating a remarkably tight squeeze into the car park with our hire car, we settled into our new coastal home. Often referred to as the Saint-Tropez of Spain due to its premium real estate and stunning location nestled between the sea and Garraf Park, Sitges boasts an impressive selection of 17 distinct beaches.
Over the course of our three-night stay, we embraced a slower pace of life. We spent our days relaxing on the golden sands, exploring the boutique shops in the town centre, dining at exceptional seafood restaurants and enjoying the world-famous nightlife. As one of Europe's premier gay destinations, Sitges possesses an incredibly welcoming, inclusive and vibrant atmosphere that made it easy to chat with fellow travellers and locals alike.
On our third day, we took a short trip up the coast to the magnificent city of Barcelona. Because the summer heat was quite sweltering, we chose to forgo general sightseeing and focus entirely on two of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural masterpieces, having secured tickets well in advance.
Our second architectural excursion was to Casa Batlló, often locally referred to as the House of Bones or the Dragon in Disguise. This UNESCO World Heritage site features a fascinating, undulating facade covered in shimmering fragments of broken ceramic tiles.
The interior is completely devoid of straight lines, relying instead on natural geometry, marine motifs and clever light wells to illuminate the apartment block. Walking through the rooms, I found myself conflicted; while living in such a creative masterpiece would be exhilarating, the absolute dominance of Gaudí's strong artistic vision would make it entirely impossible to add any personal interior design choices.
We returned to Sitges for one final evening of relaxation before our flight home the following day. This journey proved to be one of the most rejuvenating, historically rich and culturally fulfilling holidays we have ever experienced, made all the more special by sharing it with Damian and Rachel.
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