Cornwall

Day 1 - From vibrant blooms to dramatic gorges Setting out on Tuesday, we headed down the M5, which was for once behaving itself and offerin...

Day 1 - From vibrant blooms to dramatic gorges

Setting out on Tuesday, we headed down the M5, which was for once behaving itself and offering a smooth journey south. After about an hour and a half, we arrived at our first stop, RHS Garden Rosemoor. Nestled in the beautiful Torridge Valley in Devon, this garden spans 65 acres and was gifted to the Royal Horticultural Society in 1988 by Lady Anne Berry.

We had timed our visit perfectly, as the flowers were in full bloom. This was especially noticeable in the stunning rose garden, which greeted us with an array of vibrant colours and a gorgeous scent.

I particularly loved the meandering paths and walkways that lead the eye and spark curiosity at every turn. The Hot Garden, with its fiery reds and oranges, provided a brilliant contrast to the cool shades and varied textures of the Cool Garden.

Connecting these distinct garden rooms were the Long Borders, which offered a beautiful transition through the landscape. We also explored the charming Potager and Cottage Garden, complete with a traditional country worker’s cottage, before enjoying a healthy lunch.

Refreshed, we set off to our next destination, Lydford Gorge. Managed by the National Trust, this is the deepest river gorge in the South West of England, famed for its spectacular 30-metre-high Whitelady Waterfall. The walk to the waterfall through the ancient oak woodlands heightened our anticipation. When we finally arrived at the narrow gully into which the water plummets, we were not disappointed by its immense force and power. Whilst we have seen many such cascades and rock formations on our travels, this narrow, twisting gorge felt particularly spectacular and primal.

By late afternoon, we headed to our hotel in Redruth. It proved to be the most dog-friendly hotel we have ever stayed in. In our room, the staff had provided a huge basket filled with items to make our dog Bailey’s stay enjoyable, including a dog bed, blanket, food and water bowls, a feeding mat, poo bags and a big bag of doggie treats. Our room featured large patio windows leading directly to a garden designated for exercising the canine residents.

The hotel also boasted a spa, so we made full use of the facilities. However, we realized that we have become somewhat like spa connoisseurs - and perhaps a little snobbish - over the years. This particular spa was more than adequate, but it would have benefited from a touch more refinement and attention to detail. Thankfully, the evening meal in the hotel’s restaurant was absolutely first-class, featuring an excellent menu and beautifully prepared food.

A post-dinner stroll into Redruth offered a glimpse into the rich heritage of Cornwall. Redruth was once the global capital of tin and copper mining in the 18th and 19th centuries, anchoring a vibrant, industrious community. Today, times have changed, and economic shifts mean there is less to keep people in the area. A quiet air of neglect can creep into these historic towns, which feels like a great shame given the natural beauty of this part of the world.

Day 2 - Mystical mists, coastal mishaps and cliffside drama

Following a great breakfast and a leisurely morning, we set out the next day to St Ives. This quintessential Cornish fishing village, historically a hub for artists like Barbara Hepworth and Ben Nicholson, is now a major tourist hotspot. We parked at the top of the hill outside of town and wandered down through the narrow, cobbled streets to the beachfront, enjoying the mix of typical tourist shops, eateries and independent galleries.

James could not resist buying a traditional Cornish pasty. However, as soon as he exited the shop, a local seagull spotted his meaty delight, swooped down and ripped away a massive beakful, much to James's anger and annoyance. Sadly, the overcast weather prevented the town from being seen in its best light, but its historic charm remained undeniable.

Next, we drove around the Roseland Heritage Coast, stopping to admire a dramatic old tin mine that looked incredibly gothic in the encroaching mist. 

Even thicker fog greeted us at our next stop, Land's End. Looking out to sea at the most westerly tip of mainland Britain, it felt rather appropriate that the horizon looked as though the world had simply ended, as everything was blanketed in grey.

The visitor centre and attractions were very quiet due to the midweek weather, but we enjoyed a lovely meal at the restaurant. We were fascinated by an exhibition documenting the various people who have travelled the iconic route from Land's End to John o' Groats. Over the years, adventurers have completed this journey not just on foot, but using all manner of unusual transport whilst carrying bizarre items. The noble people raising money for charity or attempting to break World Records are certainly a creative lot.

We drove across the peninsular eastwards to a quaint fishing harbour with the delightful name of Mousehole (although it's pronounced "Mowzel"). It has a famous natural tidal sea-pool located along the coast that is ideal for a wild, invigorating swim - although not today!

The evening brought a long-awaited highlight that I had wanted to experience for years: a performance at the Minack Theatre. This world-famous open-air venue was carved into the granite cliffs of Porthcurno by Rowena Cade and her gardener in the 1930s. It normally features a stunning ocean backdrop, but nature provided a moody, grey setting for our performance. Whilst The Tempest or Macbeth might have been more atmospheric for the weather, we thoroughly enjoyed a spirited performance of Romeo and Juliet. 

The production was deeply enhanced by the raw, cliffside surroundings. We then headed back to the hotel for another excellent night of sleep.

Day 3 - Biodomes and ancient granite mysteries

Following another beautiful breakfast, we began our journey north towards our final major highlight: The Eden Project. James had visited a few times before, but it was my first experience. We have visited several biodomes on our travels, most recently in Norway and the massive Gardens by the Bay in Singapore. However, the Eden Project was a true pioneer in ecological restoration, and it is hard to believe it is now celebrating its 25th year since opening in a reclaimed clay pit.

Because dogs are not permitted inside the structures, we took turns exploring the two main biomes separately while the other looked after Bailey. Both the Rainforest Biome and the Mediterranean Biome were spectacular. For me, the Mediterranean Biome instantly transported me back to Santorini with its white walls, blue doors and bright purple bougainvillea, while the Australian plants evoked wonderful memories of our travels in the Southern Hemisphere.

Likewise, walking through the humid Rainforest Biome took me straight back to our time in Thailand and Bali. The site also featured educational displays regarding sustainability, demonstrating how rainforest crops can be harvested in a sensitive way to provide a valuable income for indigenous communities.

A third exhibition space, named Invisible Worlds, focused on the microscopic organisms vital to life on Earth. It featured a fascinating, breathing sculpture by Studio Swine that blew vapour rings into the air, inspired by cyanobacteria, the world's smallest yet most important oxygen-producing organisms.

As a brilliant bonus, the soundtrack to our afternoon was provided by Snow Patrol. They were slated to perform later that evening, and as we wandered through the gardens, the band was right in the middle of soundchecks. The entire valley echoed with the familiar, swelling chords of Chasing Cars, Run, and Open Your Eyes - it felt like our own private pre-concert.

Eventually, it was time to head back up the M5 towards home, but James had one last surprise prepared. We made a quick stop at Roche to view Roche Rock, which rises dramatically out of the surrounding china clay landscape to the north of St Austell. This 20-metre-tall mass of granite is steeped in local folklore, and its mysterious atmosphere is only heightened by the ruined 15th-century chapel dedicated to St Michael that stands precariously on its flat summit.

It was a wonderful two-night stay in Cornwall. We returned home knowing there is still so much more to explore on our next trip, and we will keep our fingers crossed for slightly brighter weather next time.